CStanford Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Very good points about marking with a knife. I don't remember when the last time was that I marked anything but the mortise with a gauge or knife. Anything that I'm going to start a saw cut by is marked with a sharp #4 pencil, but I am pretty particular about the pencil. I never could understand why anyone marks dovetail pins with a knife by the tails, when you are going to cut on the other side of the line. My tools of choice for a tenon cheek are floats, and paring chisel. I especially like the Iwasaki Japanese floats, and wood files. The extra fine leaves a finished surface. There's an old technique for dovetails where you push the tails just a little past the edge of the pin board, mark the pins (results in an ever so slightly fat mark), knife the lines, and let the saw settle happily right into the knifed line and saw straight down it, basically takes out the whole line. It works, but the amount you nudge the tail board past the pin board varies by species used and the thickness of the drawer sides. Too many variables to make it work in all places and all times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Hi Charlie. I was wondering where you would spring up next. I've been using this technique since I learned it from you on "the other" forum and I haven't look back. I had to get used to sawing just a little away from the line and figure out how much "just a little away" was the ideal amount, instead sawing right to it but that was a pretty easy adjustment and having those lines there as a "sign post" makes the final fitting so quick and easy. I still try saw so I get a good fit or very very near good fit right off the saw, but there's almost always at least a smidge to smooth off ( I tend to use a float) and this just helps with that so much. This is a really a great tip, and it has really help me improve my M&T work. I encourage others to try it as well. Thanks for referencing those articles. I have a FWW online membership and I'm pretty sure I've at least skimmed them, but I'm going to go back and read them in detail now. Hi Chris. I'm not above using an old 4-in-hand shoe rasp to knock down a high spot or two. 80 grit around a popsicle stick works too. Hope all is well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Thanks for the article and advice. Very good and I'm going to read it at least two more times to absorb all he's saying. Makes the offer FW had on every volume on CD for $99 more attractive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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