Switch replacement for 80's era Unisaw - how to wire it up

[Warren Hein]

I purchased a paddle switch to replace the original switch on my late 80's Unisaw but have a question about the wiring setup.

Here's the current switch:

It has three wires going to the switch plus a ground to the box. When I took a continuity meter to the three wires on the switch, there's continuity across any combination, regardless of the switch operation. The saw was unplugged at the time but I had not removed the switch. Here's the replacement:

Continuity makes sense on this switch. With continuity from left to right only if the switch is on.

How do I wire up the replacement?

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[Tpt life]

Don't measure continuity across the wires to figure switch paths. Measure across the pins of the switch with no wires hooked up. Just make sure you keep those photos safe:-)

[Warren Hein]

I thought about that, but I still need to figure out what to do with three wires into four terminals. Should I bridge the upper and lower right terminals and connect the return wire (color?) to the bridge? This is a 220v circuit.

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[Warren Hein]

I just confirmed that the original switch is magnetic since the saw remained off after I tripped the breaker while the saw was running. I'm starting to think I'm better off rigging a paddle to the existing switch or replacing it with a similar magnetic switch with integrated paddle. Any ideas on a more suitable replacement?

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[tim0625]

You need Fred....everyone knows a Fred or a Fred type.  He's the industrial electrician at 'the mill' and he's forgotten more than we'll ever know about switches and such.  Most everyone knows a Fred...call Fred.

[Tpt life]

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g8988_m.pdf

[url=https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61-Qi4EbdUL._SL256_.gif]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61-Qi4EbdUL._SL256_.gif

[Warren Hein]

Simpler solution. I just swapped out the cover plates using the new faceplate on the old switch. Gets the best of both worlds.

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