Common sense and sensitivity

[jhl.verona]

I've just completed a three day sharpening and tune-up marathon. Which I actually enjoyed, apart from the mess. This thread is a bit of a marathon too, so settle down comfortably.

Newbie

Let me firstly point out that I am a complete beginner in this genteel art, I've read the reads, but not walked the walk - till now. I may well have done things wrong, so any pointers will be greatly appreciated.

Firstly, there is a noise - just one - which made it all worth while. It's the 'seeyou' sound the plane makes when you cut off a wafer thin shaving. It's not a half thou shaving mind you, but I made it (and the noise) with the help of my Stanley #4 and a new, sharpened Hock blade. On pine, 'cause that's all I have right now.

TLC and lapping

I bought a honing guide, a selection of wet and dry sandpaper, and grabbed a spare floor tile, that's 300mm/12" by 600mm/24" by 12mm/1/2" of marble. I also had a newly purchased Hock blade, an inherited Stanley #4, an unidentified block plane (but similar in shape to the #120) and a small bullnose, oh, and a Record 043 (and after a long search all three of its blades).

The planes, having been in storage for several years were a bit lack lustre. I don't have the ability to bring them back to a pristine condition, but at least I can tackle the working parts.

The first thing I did was take them apart one plane at a time. I'm very good at this, but have trouble putting things back together again, I usually have some bits 'left over' when done. So I took lots of photos for reference - which I used twice.

All the steel threads (especially the depth adjustment thread) got brushed over with a small (toothbrush size) brass wire brush.

Thought about removing the lateral adjuster on the frog, then decided that I'd probably never get it back on again, so it stayed put.

The frog faces hadn't been touched so I lapped them. To do the face with the lateral adjuster, I cut a U shaped piece of sandpaper, stuck it onto the Hock blade, laid the blade flat on the marble tile, and rubbed the frog along the blade. It worked, and the lateral adjuster only got swiped a couple of times. The only surface I couldn't get to were the two milled surfaces on the sole just behind the mouth. I just wrapped some sandpaper over the end of a flat file and gave them some gentle rubbing, brought up a shine, but didn't remove much of the mill marks.

Nota Bene: The paper the Hock blade comes in is actually printed - there's a concise honing/sharpening guide that I found very useful. Plus if you don't notice the print, and tear the paper off like it was Christmas, you also get a free puzzle. DAMHIKT.

Put all the bits back together, no left overs, tightened down everything (not much though, no gorilla tactics) leaving the plane iron retracted about 0.5mm/1/32".

I then lapped the sole using long strips of P80 grit, up to P240 grit. I can't see the need to go any higher on cast iron. I used long strips (300mm/12") taped beginning and end on the marble tile, which rested on a glass table with a tea towel between to avoid scratching the table (the underside of the marble tile is not milled, nor smooth). I used a steel rule for the straight edge, and bought a small (50mm/2" blade) Engineer's square.

Of course the #4 took the most time, also because I lapped the sides too for shooting purposes. Gave up lapping the sides on the block plane because they were just too curved, and I don't think it was designed for shooting anyway. Got them 'shiny' anyway.

I lapped with short strokes (say 50mm/2") to avoid rocking, and with a slight diagonal movement, two hands, on the knob and tote (where else?), little or no downward pressure. I used the diagonal scratch marks to judge where the sole was being lapped. Didn't bother with using a marker pen, there was more than enough difference between the grime and shiny surface. Much sanding zen required here - took about three hours all together, but I took my time, took breaks, read the forums, etc. Discovered Alf - anyone else 'know' this lady?

Your hands, and therefore everything else, become black with the iron filings. An old paint brush (or cheap BORG one in my case) is perfect for cleaning the sandpaper, and the iron dust leaves a 'loose filling' taste in the mouth. I used a glass (or three) of Chianti to solve the last problem.

Grinding/honing

After lapping I laid out the plane irons for grinding/honing - a depressingly long line of them, 7 in total, plus two chisels. Sigh.

Laid out all 10 strips of sandpaper (80, 120, 240, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500) taped front and back, across the width (300mm) of the tile, so that I could move easily from one to the other along the length (600mm).

Quick maths revision, to find the protrusion needed for 25° angle, then started with the block plane blade, because it was in the worst condition, so I couldn't really make things worse. I did the back first, using the tape as the shim so I only grind a short section of the edge, then bevel, then move up a grit. The old blades spent a lot of time in the 80/120 grit area, mostly to regrind the bevel, and in one case to get it straight.

Now I've read about the burr and all, seen the diagrams, but honesly beyond P400 grit I couln't feel it at all. Went back to P240 grit twice, but still lost the feeling over P400. Running the blade flat, bevel up and in the wrong direction on the flat of my thumbnail gave some sensation up to P1200, (scraper like ultrafine shavings) so after that I just went on faith. Both the backs and bevels got between 20 and 30 swipes - you do the damndest things when sharpening, including mentally counting the swipes.

Also, one good technique (can't remember whose) is to run the tip of your thumbnail along the cutting edge, that way you can feel both the sharpness, and if there are any very small nicks. Remember, just like toothpicks, sharp steel objects, if used improperly, can leave you looking like a for a first aid box.

As to sharpness, I don't see much point in the forearm hair test, other than the testosterone thing (I don't have many hairs on my forearms), so again I lay the blade flat and bevel up on the flat of my thumbnail. Move a little in the wrong direction, then stop. There should be resistance stopping you going in the 'right' direction, that's the sharp edge digging in to the thumbnail.

I had some reservations about, well, you know, using sandpaper to sharpen steel, but it does work, and leaves a lovely shiny mirror finish (I had a magnifying glass handy to check the scratch marks). Talking of which, if you see a very fine line at the tip, just before you get the blinding flash of the honed bevel as you move the blade in the light - that's the sign of a still blunt edge. It goes away as you hit the higher grits. And, yes, those higher (over P800) grits are definitely worth the effort.

Conclusions

My conclusions? Well, it took forever, of course. Resharpening is much faster, I started the Hock at P240. Probably takes two to five minutes per blade, 10 minutes if you have to start at P80, 20 minutes if the edge isn't perpendicular, or has small nicks. Forever if the nicks are big - buy a screwdriver next time.

But the results are worth it, I've never had steel so sharp before. Example: I usually brush my finger tip across the blade the wrong way to feel for lateral adjustment and depth of cut. I must have stopped my finger once, because hours later, I could feel it stinging when I washed my hands - no blood, but a clean 4 mm nick on the tip of my ring finger. Going to have to change the way I do that.

Oher than common sense, which I think woodworkers are well blessed with (I may be the exception to the rule) I get the impression that you can read articles, and watch DVD's till the cows come home, but you've got to learn the 'touchy feely' thing all by yourself, hence the title of this ridiculously long thread.

If, like me, you sharpen four times a month, don't have a grinder, and don't want too much mess, then the scary sharp system is cheap and functional. If you sharpen four times a day, then it is neither. Buy yourself a grinder and some waterstones, and get messy.

John

[wilburpan]

Sounds to me like you got it! Congrats on having sharp tools!

This reminds me -- I have to do some touch ups on my tools as well.

[PaulMarcel]

Nice (and comical!) post, John.

[HoboMonk]

Today is Surudoi kowai day in my studio.

[PaulMarcel]

Today is Surudoi kowai day in my studio.

kirei... (incorrectly) spelt "切れい"

[HoboMonk]

言語を一つは消して足りない

[jhl.verona]

If that's what Japanese waterstones do to you, I'll stick to wet and dry... Wilbur, sort these guys out for me, or send them the cure .

[PaulMarcel]

ha ha... I tried a very lame play on words. "kirei" is something a Japanese girl I knew would say when something was neat or cool; it really means neat or pretty. The incorrect spelling uses the Kanji 切 which is used in "cutting" ideas (verbs, edges, etc.) and it is pronouned "ki". Likely nobody found that amusing but, let me tell you, I was on the floor

You'll agree with HoboMonk, John, so just say "absolutely!"

"One language is not enough"

...and I think I busted every neuron trying to remember those Kanji... any worse and I'd start speaking Engrish LOUDLY to foreigners.