Tom Saigyo Cross Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hello, I recently completed a 8/4 hard maple counter. It is not a cutting surface but is near a sink and gets water contact. I applied 4 coats of Watco Danish oil, wet/dry sanding the last coat and leaving this for a full week to cure. The result was a very smooth satin sheen and looked great. As soon as there was water contact though the grain was raised and the surface felt slightly rough. Can anyone give me suggestions on what to do, what went wrong or if I have used the wrong product entirely for this application. With many thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcornHouse Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hello, I recently completed a 8/4 hard maple counter. It is not a cutting surface but is near a sink and gets water contact. I applied 4 coats of Watco Danish oil, wet/dry sanding the last coat and leaving this for a full week to cure. The result was a very smooth satin sheen and looked great. As soon as there was water contact though the grain was raised and the surface felt slightly rough. Can anyone give me suggestions on what to do, what went wrong or if I have used the wrong product entirely for this application. With many thanks Tom Danish Oil is a non-film finish, and gives very little protection from water. Since this isn't to be a cutting surface, I would suggest adding a few coats of a wipe-on poly to add some protection from water. When water gets on it, try to wipe it off as soon as you can, but the poly will certainly help to avoid any more grain raising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Saigyo Cross Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Danish Oil is a non-film finish, and gives very little protection from water. Since this isn't to be a cutting surface, I would suggest adding a few coats of a wipe-on poly to add some protection from water. When water gets on it, try to wipe it off as soon as you can, but the poly will certainly help to avoid any more grain raising. Thank you for your suggestion. Does a wipe-on poly leave a film like finish? I dislike the "bar" look and was hoping to protect the wood without resorting to varnish finish. I really like the natural look of an oil finish. Thank you again Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcornHouse Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thank you for your suggestion. Does a wipe-on poly leave a film like finish? I dislike the "bar" look and was hoping to protect the wood without resorting to varnish finish. I really like the natural look of an oil finish. Thank you again Tom By using a wipe on poly, you can make the coats thin enough that, even though it will leave a protective film finish, it won't have that plastic, bar, look. I would use a satin poly to avoid too much shine, and only use enough coats until you get a consistent sheen. My procedure is to brush it on, and then wipe off with a clean, lint free, cloth. That way, you are laying down very thin coats. I usually lightly sand with 400 grit wet/dry between coats. And, again, after a few of these thin coats, stop when you get a consistent look over the whole top that you like. A couple of days after the final coat, rub the top with a brown paper bag for a final burnish to remove any lingering dust nibs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcornHouse Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Btw, I've used both Minwax and Watco wipe-on Polys, and while both work well, for some reason, Watco's Wipe-on Poly has a much nicer smell. Odd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Saigyo Cross Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Btw, I've used both Minwax and Watco wipe-on Polys, and while both work well, for some reason, Watco's Wipe-on Poly has a much nicer smell. Odd. Thank you very much. I'll get some (nicer smelling) Watco and do this. You help is much appreciated. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayWC Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 To slightly hijack this thread...can you put poly over polymerized tung oil (the stuff in the yellow minwax cans)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoboMonk Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Note: Minwax Tung Oil FINISH is not poymerized tung oil. It is an oil/varnish blend diluted with 2/3 solvent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cormier33 Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Good thread. I was just going to use danish oil to finish my maple workbench top but I think I will use tung oil instead now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayWC Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Note: Minwax Tung Oil FINISH is not poymerized tung oil. It is an oil/varnish blend diluted with 2/3 solvent. So...can I put poly over that tung oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcornHouse Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Good thread. I was just going to use danish oil to finish my maple workbench top but I think I will use tung oil instead now. Actually, Danish oil or tung oil make good workbench finishes. Since it will be expected to take abuse, and need refinishing from time to time, they work well as an "in the wood" finish; as long as you don't use too many Danish oil coats so that it starts to build a film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcornHouse Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 So...can I put poly over that tung oil? Yes, no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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