t-bone Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 hi evryone, i just recieved my one way multi-gauge. iam new with this stuff it came with a little medal gaget i don't have a clue what it for, can someone help me out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 hi evryone, i just recieved my one way multi-gauge. iam new with this stuff it came with a little medal gaget i don't have a clue what it for, can someone help me out? Didn't it come with directions? I have the A-Line it Deluxe. Great little tool for setting my tools up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Didn't it come with directions? I have the A-Line it Deluxe. Great little tool for setting my tools up. yes it came with directions, but it said nothing about about the little medal piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 yes it came with directions, but it said nothing about about the little medal piece I hope someone has one and was able to figure out the metal piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Post a pic, someone will figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 I found a pic of that thing. Are you talking about the dial indicator foot? Looks like it comes with a flat foot for use on setting up jointer blades and also a standard end that looks more pointed. Does it have threads in it (not on but inside a hole)? That would be my best guess as to what the little metal piece is anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 I found a pic of that thing. Are you talking about the dial indicator foot? Looks like it comes with a flat foot for use on setting up jointer blades and also a standard end that looks more pointed. Does it have threads in it (not on but inside a hole)? That would be my best guess as to what the little metal piece is anyway. i think so i'll have to check, but whats it for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 i think so i'll have to check, but whats it for If it's the pointy indicator foot then it is just another way to use the dial indicator. It basically lets you get the indicator on a hard to reach area that the flat foot wouldn't be suited for such as the arbor flange of a tablesaw for instance. Still you should post a pic just so we can be sure that is it. The pic I found was from a non-professional review and I have no idea for sure if he showed everything that came with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 thats just what it does someone mentioned run out on the table saw but didn't explain what that is can you tell me? I sorry but i don't know how to send pictures but i will have someone show me ok, thanks for being so patient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 thats just what it does someone mentioned run out on the table saw but didn't explain what that is can you tell me? I sorry but i don't know how to send pictures but i will have someone show me ok, thanks for being so patient Run out is basically wobble. The tablesaw arbor can have run out as well as the arbor flange and the blade itself. The arbor's run out can be caused by it being bent, not being machined completely round or having a bad bearing or bearing seat. Any of those things can cause the arbor to spin in an oblong path instead of circular. The arbor flange can have run out from being poorly machined or, if it's press fit onto the arbor shaft, from being pressed on in a slightly canted orientation. The blade can have run out from being poorly made (i.e. the saw plate is stamped poorly). If the arbor flange or shaft has run out then you might not be able to do much about it (it depends on the saw's design) but the blade can easily be replaced with a new, and better quality one since it was probably cheap to begin with. When talking about run out on the arbor shaft or flange you are talking about very small amount of movement from a true circular path with 1 or 2 thousandths (.001 to .002) being in the acceptable range and anything more possible needing attention, especially if you are talking about high dollar (quality) saws. If the run out is too high on either the arbor shaft or flange then the blade will wobble in the cut and generally make an uneven cut that will also likely not be square and straight no matter how good and flat the blade is. Run out on the shaft can / does compound with run out on the flange so is you have .001 of run out on the shaft and .003 run out on the flange you have a total of .004 run out which would result in a possibly poor cut. Drill presses should also be checked for run out as well at the chuck and the quill, with the range being about the same as that for tablesaw run out. If the run out on the drill press is too great you will end up with oblong holes no matter how perfect the drill bit is. The chuck and quill run out add up as well. Hope that helps. One thing you should note is that there is some debate out there over how much total run out is acceptable. That will have to be determined by you ultimately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Run out is basically wobble. The tablesaw arbor can have run out as well as the arbor flange and the blade itself. The arbor's run out can be caused by it being bent, not being machined completely round or having a bad bearing or bearing seat. Any of those things can cause the arbor to spin in an oblong path instead of circular. The arbor flange can have run out from being poorly machined or, if it's press fit onto the arbor shaft, from being pressed on in a slightly canted orientation. The blade can have run out from being poorly made (i.e. the saw plate is stamped poorly). If the arbor flange or shaft has run out then you might not be able to do much about it (it depends on the saw's design) but the blade can easily be replaced with a new, and better quality one since it was probably cheap to begin with. When talking about run out on the arbor shaft or flange you are talking about very small amount of movement from a true circular path with 1 or 2 thousandths (.001 to .002) being in the acceptable range and anything more possible needing attention, especially if you are talking about high dollar (quality) saws. If the run out is too high on either the arbor shaft or flange then the blade will wobble in the cut and generally make an uneven cut that will also likely not be square and straight no matter how good and flat the blade is. Run out on the shaft can / does compound with run out on the flange so is you have .001 of run out on the shaft and .003 run out on the flange you have a total of .004 run out which would result in a possibly poor cut. Drill presses should also be checked for run out as well at the chuck and the quill, with the range being about the same as that for tablesaw run out. If the run out on the drill press is too great you will end up with oblong holes no matter how perfect the drill bit is. The chuck and quill run out add up as well. Hope that helps. One thing you should note is that there is some debate out there over how much total run out is acceptable. That will have to be determined by you ultimately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Yep that is a standard dial indicator foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 you have been so helpful,i was hoping you got the picture i had to figure it out iam glade you got it. Iam hoping if i need more help i can ask you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 t bone, first, the flat foot for your indicator is for objects that are round and the pointed/standard foot is for flat surfaces. Also, plz be sure to size your photo to about 1024x1000 pixels before posting them. That way they can be viewed without scrolling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 t bone, first, the flat foot for your indicator is for objects that are round and the pointed/standard foot is for flat surfaces. Also, plz be sure to size your photo to about 1024x1000 pixels before posting them. That way they can be viewed without scrolling. hows this, if not good can you tell me how to cange the size, i have it set at 1024x768 thats as far as it goes i guess, try chaging the zoom level to 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 hows this, if not good can you tell me how to cange the size, i have it set at 1024x768 thats as far as it goes i guess, try chaging the zoom level to 50 hows this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 hows this Yes, T-Bone..that foot is for round or cylindrical items. Here's a thread for resizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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