Hand raising panels

[Roger T]

Morning all,

On my current project, I am making hand raised panels for the false drawer fronts. I had wanted to raise the field about 1/8" above the bevel, but not having a dedicated panel raising plane, was forced to use standard bench planes to just bring the bevel to the face of the field.

I have a variety of different planes to use for this, but just cant quite figure out the method of work to accomplish this task. I feel this really needs this raised portion to make the beveling stand out better. Thanks much for your help.

Roger

[Pete Bennett]

Morning all,

On my current project, I am making hand raised panels for the false drawer fronts. I had wanted to raise the field about 1/8" above the bevel, but not having a dedicated panel raising plane, was forced to use standard bench planes to just bring the bevel to the face of the field.

I have a variety of different planes to use for this, but just cant quite figure out the method of work to accomplish this task. I feel this really needs this raised portion to make the beveling stand out better. Thanks much for your help.

Roger

Until a few years ago I used to do everything by hand. The way I used to do this was to begin by lightly scribing across the grain at the ends and along the length of the raised portion plus around the perimeter of the lower part this set the depth of my fielding. I would then clamp a straight piece across the ends of where I wanted the step to be and using a shoulder plane I would plane effectively a rebate down to the depth I needed. In your case 1/8". Then I would plane the fielding down to the scribe line. Having done this on both ends I would repeat the process along the sides. This way you are very unlikely to splinter the ends of the shoulders. It is a slow process but, isn't that one of the joys of doing things by hand.

Hope this helps

Pete

[Bob Rozaieski]

Plane field first with a rabbet plane. I have used a fenced rabbet plane as well as an unfenced rabbet plane to do this. To use the unfenced plane, you clamp a straight board to the panel to guide the plane along your scribe line. Skewed iron planes excel at this because they can cut against the grain (which you will have to do on at least one side) and still limit tearout.

Once the field is defined, use the unfenced rabbet plane to plane the bevels, because it can plane right up to the field. Start at the end grain in case you get spelching. Then finish up with the long grain bevels.

[RenaissanceWW]

Yeah what Bob said. He is too fast for me!