Putting on the straight edge


jbstudio

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Hi All!

So I managed to make a 10'x2' edge grain laminate strip maple breakfast bar for my clients kitchen island AND in a shop that is approx. 10'x15'. So to trim it all up to size and square it up I was just going to use a router with a top bearing, pattern bit and a straight edge. I did this on the smaller 7'x3' countertop for the same kitchen and it worked great, although it took a lot of time. I don't have access to a joiner that can handle joining all 10' and now the idea of routing 10' of wood is frightening. I do have some 1/4"mdf I was thinking I could use as a sort of guide and run the 10' breakfast bar through my Jet ProShop 10" table saw in order to get a good straight edge on one side. Then using that side as a straight and square reference against the fence for the other side. I was thinking that I could brad nail the mdf to the breakfast bar, or use double sided tape, with about a 1" overhang to run along the fence. Does this make sense? Similar to how many woodworker make a straightline jig for circular saws. How reliable of a method is this for getting a straight edge? I only have a small bow in one edge and of course a hump in the other. And I have about an inch and quarter overage to work with. Is it crazy to think that my thin kerf rip blade could handle the 2" countertop? Thoughts? Concerns? Has anyone tried this or similar?

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My thin kerf blade and a 1.75 HP saw handles 3" poplar in one pass. Maple is much harder, so you might need to take a few passes, raising the blade each time. Your idea makes sense to me. I'd like to have an assistant to help with a piece that size. I'd also want board buddies, featherboards, infeed and outfeed supports, and anything else you can think of to help control the workpiece.

I'm not sure why using a router is frightening. Time consuming, maybe, but it seems like a straightforward, safe, and predictable approach. If you can do 1 foot, then you can do 10 feet, it just takes longer. Maybe I'm mis-understanding.

Do you have a hand plane? That and a straight edge might be an easier fix for the small hump.

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The TS should be fine with a sharp blade and a well tuned saw but especially with Maple it is probable to get some burn marks. As for doing it with the router, it works great. I made my jigs with 3/8" ply with a 1/2" thick by about 2" fence down the middle and I run my circ saw on one side and the router on the other. For attaching the jig to the material I put some fine grit adhesive backed sandpaper down the middle of the jigs and just clamp it on each end, I have never had an issue with it slipping or moving. I have 2', 4' and 8' long jigs and they satisfy all my needs. You have to do what makes you comfortable but if I were you I would cut it a little oversized on the TS and trim t to size with the router and jig. Let us know how you turn out.

Nate

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Thanks for the advice. I ended up just using my router with a straight edge. However, the edge is still not straight even after two attempts at making it so. GRRR!!! I am trying to glue up a 6" wide section of the laminate strip countertop to an 11" section. It is my almost my final glue upl, after this I only have to glue up a 1.75" strip to make the front edge. It is fairly close and with clamps I could make it work, but there is one section that is still off by 1/8" of an inch even when clamped. I am running out of patience trying to straighten this edge and running out of ideas. I have a jointer hand plane but am simply horrible at using it and feel like I am just guessing at it when I do. Help me.

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What thickness and width is your straight edge, it sounds like it is flexing when you are using it, a 1/8" is a lot to be off. If I were you I would figure out the problem and go from there. It sounds like you just need practice and maybe a tuneup with your handplane but a actual project is not the place to be practicing, once you get a solid straightedge you should be all set

Nate

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I am just using some 1/4" MDF for my straight edge guide, so that could certainly be the problem. I will check into it this weekend. I try and only take a little off at time with the router, I may end up doing 5-6 passes, each time only taking off 1/8" or so. Since I am really only trying to mate to edges together, what if I routed both at the same time. Meaning that I would put them edge to edge, maybe clamp them, and then using my staight edge guide route over the "joint". This would be harder for sure on the router, but if I take it slow and take off only a little a time it might work. And then I'd end up, hopefully, with two mating edges to join up. Thoughts?

Thanks so much for the help. Often, I get to wrapped up in a project to see my way out of a problem. I am only hoping that this improves with experience. I was spoiled because at woodworking school we had 20+ others to turn to for their personal take on an issue or project.

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Thanks so much for the help. Often, I get to wrapped up in a project to see my way out of a problem. I am only hoping that this improves with experience. I was spoiled because at woodworking school we had 20+ others to turn to for their personal take on an issue or project.

We have 20+ others, too!! cool.gif

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