d3v Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Hi all. I'm a hobbyist yew bowyer and after aqquiring a a good stock of yew tree trunks I'm taking bowyering seriously, and that means making a good solid work bench with a couple of vices. I've got all the timber, screws and fixings that I need to actually make the bench, however the 3 (9" wide) pine boards I intend to use for the worktop surface have bits and pieces of dried concrete stuck on them. I intend to remove the concrete with a power sander, but I would also like to hand plane the suface to achieve a nice flat working tabletop surface. I've read the plane thread sticky here but was dissapointed to see only Veritas and Lie Nielson reccomendations, both being out of my price range and overkill for my limited needs. There's a few hand planes currently on ebay that I would like you're opinions on. I intend to sharpen the blade myself, but want the ability to fit new blades if need be. How do I know if spare blades are available for a certain plane? Could you guys pick out a plane from this ebay auction list that have spare blades readily available... http://www.ebay.co.u...6.c0.m270.l1313 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathryn Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 A Stanley or Record No. 6, 7, or 8 would be good. I wouldn't worry about the blade. Unless it's a smoothing plane, the blade doesn't need to be perfect, just sharp, and blades for those models are still available. The best option would be to borrow one in working condition or have someone show you how to use one. You may want to try a boot fair, where you'll be able to examine the goods closely for broken castings etc. There are also a lot of wooden jointers in your neck of the woods that may be serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 The tools you require for a bench will be very different from the tools you need to make bows, I think. Even if you go down the Fleabay path, you'll still be making a fairly large investment, both in money and time - more time than money, because very few 'used' tools are sold by the users themselves these days, so what is 'good condition' to them might not make the grade as a user. Since you linked to the UK Fleabay site, I'll assume you live in the UK or Europe. You can get a lot of information from the UKWorkshop forum, and you might find some members close to home. They've also produced quite a few reviews of the Quangsheng planes, sold as Wood River in the US, which seem to offer an interesting third option. They can be bought from Workshop Heaven, and also offer replacement blades for the older Stanley's and Record's, plus a reasonably priced 'scary sharp' system. From my own experience, I can only vouch for the scary sharp system, the 3M lapping film lasts a long time - if you don't scratch it by accident. You'll need a flat surface to stick them to, glass or marble tiles will do. I have not bought a Quangsheng plane, but I may very well buy a few replacement blades in the future. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 I have had good luck with buying planes off ebay fixing them up for use. generally i rely on the pictures to tell how well they look. also if you can find antique flea markets or sales places thats another route. things to look for minimal pitting( rust spots that have eaten divots) into the sole, no cracks or repair spots at the mouth(its common to break at the mouth), older planes with flat ground frogs(definately avoid sheet metal frogs), and familiarize yourself on the parts enough to know if all the parts are mainly intact(wooden tote and knob excluded you can always make those if possible. Know your planes, don't go into a place and pick up a plane until you know the models and makes a little. you don't necessarily have to be an expert but know what you are looking for. You don't primarily need stanley! records are a great plane and will work great for you. I have a combination of different makers, millers falls, stanley, dunlap, craftsman and keen kutter for instance all are great hand planes. there is a sticky with important links about hand planes including ones that deal with buying antiques. for any help just come back and ask i love to talk hand planes. lastly may god have mercy on your soul this is a slippery slope once you get hooked you will be scouring looking for rare hand planes in hopes of one day owning them all 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hi everyone, thanks for the great replies. I ended up bidding and winning an eBay auction for an old Record Rabbet plane. I was attracted to it's large size and suitibility for heavy duty use, so figured it would make short work of my soon to be work bench suface! What do you guys think?? http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 Also whay do you guys think of planes that feature adjustable mouths? The idea seems good, but does the adjustability compromise the most important thing - durability and accuracy of the blade angle? In my experience there is always a trade off with every positive feature. I'm thinking of getting an old Stanley 020 block plane that has adjustable mouth feature. john@verona thanks for those links I will sign up to UK workshop forum right away. Those Quangsheng planes do look ideal and after I see how I get on with my new Record Rabbet I will consider buying a Quangsheng in due course as they are sensibly priced. @jwatson I have duly read the sticky's on second hand plane buying and renovation/tuning. I love that sort of thing so I will be checking and tuning any planes I buy before using them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Nice Jack Rabbet. It will work as a smoother on easy wood, camber the blade slightly and keep your fingers away from the side cutouts. An adjustable mouth holds the fibres down just ahead of the irons edge. It controls tearout, which is why your rabbet plane will have a tough time on difficult wood. The blade angle on a bevel down plane like that is set by the frog, accuracy of the edge is determined by your honing guide or freehand skills. Durability is a factor of the irons makeup, the angle honed, and the woods characteristics. The only time the mouth is a factor is when you run the front of the plane into a dog and the sole is driven into the blades edge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Wait a minute, does your rabbet plane have an adjustable frog? If so you can dial in the mouth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Yes, it does, so he can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Oh it does? Niice! That means I won't have to bother with blade cambering and such like? I can sharpen a factory ground bevel freehand just fine, but have never customised a new bevel myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 im jealous now that is a much better price than i could get on the US ebay. I would still suggest getting a set of bench planes #5 #7 etc for flattening a bench top. I flattened mine with a #5 and a #6. that rabbet plane will be a versatile plane for you though. i wouldn't camber the iron on that plane because then you cant use it to make rabbets and tenons. kari hultman has a video out there on a jig for cambering on a grinder. you can flatten with it square but it just takes longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 The camber on a smoothing plane is very slight, and is to avoid leaving tracks when the low corner digs in. I hone the camber in, as opposed to grinding. Pressure on one corner, then the other for just a few strokes over the stone will produce enough of a curve. You can smooth with a straight iron, you just need to work toward the side with the low corner. Each pass removes the track from the one before. It's just kind of a hassle. I agree with JWatson on two points; that's a great price for a nice plane, and additional bench planes would be nice to have. Your Jack Rabbet is versatile, long enough to joint and short enough to smooth, but it isn't the ideal tool for either circumstance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Well it's reassuring to know I got a good plane at a good price!! As for the cambering I will definately give it a go if (or more like when!) I encounter difficulties. Right then the Record rabbet plane arrived just now and I've stripped, de-greased, cleaned and polished the blade and other shiny bits with ausosol. I put a metal ruler egde along the sole of the plane and there was a gap along most of the middle of the sole, but each end of the steel ruler lay flat on the sole of the plane. I believe the plane is slightly concaved. Should I flatten the plane or leave it as it is?? As for the iron it looks just fine, but does need a re-sharpen for sure. There is no fancy bevel configuration... just one single bevel like a chisel so should be nice and easy to achieve a razor hone on it. Now I just hope I can get the thing back together again without too much hassle! Pictures here, you're thoughts and opinions on the quality of this plane are most welcome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathryn Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 It looks like a nice plane in good shape. You don't want to camber the blade on it though, because it's a rebate plane. Making a curved edge on the blade would interfere with the plane's ability to take a shaving right down to the corner, which is why the cheeks are cut out and it has the funny-looking cutting iron. If you're looking to make your workbench flat with a plane as you stated in your original post, I don't think this plane is long enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 When you're checking the sole, you need to have the frog and iron in place. Everything should be as it would if you were using it, just with the blade retracted so as to not interfere with the straightedge. The tightening process puts tension on the body and will change your results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 yep it made a difference once everything was bolted together tightly, however the ruler was still not perfectly flush to the sole as light albeit much less still shone through. Is this tolerable or should I dress the sole with sandpaper on a flat surface? I couldn't believe how difficult this iron was to sharpen. I couldn't achieve anything near a razor edge, however I got it sharp enough to perform a few good minutes of satisfying planing, watching those chunky curls of woods spill out the top of the plane, and then as the edge starting to go, the plane clattered to a stop. I wouldn't mind an aftermarket carbon steel blade for this plane as I loathe sharpening this "tungsten vanadium" iron. Anyone got a blade replacment reccomendation that will fit this plane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 hock sells an iron for it http://www.hocktools.com/BP.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Thanks, will bookmark that link. Well after much practice and patience I have finally set the plane up nicely, but after around 20-30 strokes, the plane starts clattering over the wood. Removing the bits and pieces of wood is not enough and I must dismantle and re-sharpen the blade to get it planing nicely once again. Is this normal?? Surely the edge should be kept for far longer??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 probably should have held an edge longer. what wood were you planing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 aha turns out I had not setup the plane quite right. After a quick tweak and a tighten of the bolts it is now working very nicely indeed. I'm paling the 3 9x3x70" pine planks that will make the top of my workbench and the plane is doing a very good job of smothing them. Will take some photos soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoFF Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Are you sure that ruler is flat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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