need some advice

[jcanelli]

So i'm in the process of staining a pair of 4 x 8 bookshelf units I made out of maple. The plan is to achieve a nice dark rich mahongany color.

I sanded to 220

sprayed trans tint mahongay dye as a base.

followed that up with a wipe down of bulls eye shellac cut 50/50 with denatured alcohol.

quick sand with 220

applied BAC wiping stain from sherwin williams (library oak)......

Now i'm lost.... I want to apply van dyke brown glaze from GF(water based). I'm not sure how to proceed. I know sherwin williams calls for a vinyl sealer. should I apply it before the glaze or am I ok to move forward with the glaze. I was planning on using a lacquer as my top coat . The plan is to spray it. I'm not sure if this is the best option because it seems like it's going to be difficult to apply correctly due to spraying into the cabinets. any help would be greatly appreciated. this is my first piece that I've attempted to finish and I really don't want to screw it up at this point. thanks in advance.

[TimV]

Before I apply a glaze I always seal the BAC wiping stain. I have used sealcoat and the latest mahogany project I have completed, I used a washcoat of vinyl sealer. This consisted of 20% vinyl sealer and 80% lacquer thinner. I sprayed this layer. Then I apply the glaze, I hope using a waterbased doesn't cause problems because you've used a solvent based stain. I always stay within the same reducer type, solvent or water for all layers. After the glaze, I spray the vinyl sealer at a 80% vinyl sealer/20% lacquer thinner. Then I spray the cab acrylic lacquer at 80% lac/20% thinner. As many layers as I seem appropriate.

A couple other notes: If I haven't done this layering of colors before, I always do test panels with the full finishing process. I also sand only to 220 on the bare wood then use a scotch brite pad to smooth between layers of finish. Occasionally, I lightly sand with 320 only after the first layer of topcoat lacquer. I never use shellac, I use sealcoat. Sealcoat is dewaxed. I know there might be discussions whether the wax causes issue or not, but I don't risk it and just use sealcoat.

FYI: These are my test panels of the mahogany finish that I use.

This is the latest mahogany project that I'm wrapping up.

This is the process I used: Started with mahogany hardwood and ply, sanded to 220, 20/80 vinyl sealer/thinner washcoat - spray, BAC Cordovan Wiping stain - spray and wipe, 20/80 vinyl sealer/thinner washcoat - spray, BAC wiping stain Mission Oak - spray allow to partially dry - rub in - wipe to depth, very light mist spray of BAC Mission Oak, 80/20 vinyl sealer/thinner, green scotch brite pad, CAB Acrylic Dull rubbed effect lacquer - spray as many coats as necessary - min 3, scotch brite between layers. All the materials I use are Sherwin Williams.

[AceHoleInOne]

If this were me...stick with one finish manufactures products...Transtint is fine. However for glazing and stain and sealer....stick with Sherwin Williams ("SW").

First, you may have been able to just seal the dye with vinyl sealer and omit the shellac. Again, that's where the SW dealer comes into play. Ask them these type of questions, they are there to help you. Trust me they don't want an unhappy customer. The pro's ask question all the time about products and compatibility...they hate headaches, just like you do.

Second, glaze over the vinyl sealer if that's recommended by SW. Glaze is usually applied over a sealer or topcoat so you don't disturb the color underneath and allows for depth. Again your concern is compatibility with their product lines! Maybe they have a better product to glaze over????

Third, again, topcoat with a SW brand of topcoat...compatibility!

Fourth, to spray or wipe a finish....heck dude.....if you invested in spray equipment...use it...that's how we get better Yes cabinets can be a bitch...maybe wipe the insides with a finish and spray the exterior? The best advice I can give you if your going to spray. Practice with an empty spray gun, air hose attached. Move around the piece get a feel.

******Make sure your sealer is good and dry before you glaze***** Make sure your glaze is good and dry before you topcoat****

Sealer and glaze needs to gas off. If you rush the process, you could have adhesion issues. Let it dry!

-Ace-