Help With A Oil/Wax Maloof Finish

[DaveF]

I recently started experimenting with a Sam Maloof oil/wax finish similar to the one sold by Rockler and I am loving it. The finish this mixture produces feels great to touch, and the soft luster is wonderful to look at. The mixture is equal parts boiled linseed oil and tung oil combined with a handful of bees wax. It's then melted/combined over a double boiler (outside!).

My question is about the amount of wax that needs to be added to the mixture. The first batch I made had a lot of wax in it, and as it cooled it solidified into a waxy, goopy mess that had to be reheated prior to use. In subsequent batches I've added less and less wax, however each time the mixture cools the wax seems to separate out and coagulates on the bottom of my container. Is this normal, does the wax always cool and separate and re-solidify? Do I need to re-heat the mixture every time I want to finish a project? I guess I could just order a batch of Rocklers stuff to see what it looks like but thought I'd ask the group and maybe pick up some tips.

Dave

[AceHoleInOne]

I think the problem is you are using "boiled" linseed oil. I think the recipe calls for plain linseed oil. The boiled has driers added to it and could be causing the separation? Perhaps the separation is normal and just need to mix up real good before using. I believe you should not have to keep reheating each time. I have never made any so no personal experience.

Hope this helps.

-Ace-

[AceHoleInOne]

Oops...I just looked it up and yes to the boiled linseed oil.......???anybody???

-Ace-

[timmahoney34]

Sam Maloof used 2 different oil finishes. One with wax added and the other without. The first is a 3 part mix. One part 100% pure tung oil, one part boiled linseed oil and one part oil poly varnish. (don't get the water based poly). Put on 4-5 coats. I only mix enough to use for each coat. He would then recommend a couple of coats of the same 3 part mix but with the beeswax added. If you read any of his books he stated that he used a couple of handfuls in a gal mix. Don't use the beeswax mix on table tops due to water spots from setting a glass of liquid on the top. I buy the Tried and True original brand mix. It has a long shelf life. If I run out and only need a small amount I will mix my own using the Maloof mix. Hope this helps

[DaveF]

Sam Maloof used 2 different oil finishes. One with wax added and the other without. The first is a 3 part mix. One part 100% pure tung oil, one part boiled linseed oil and one part oil poly varnish. (don't get the water based poly). Put on 4-5 coats. I only mix enough to use for each coat. He would then recommend a couple of coats of the same 3 part mix but with the beeswax added. If you read any of his books he stated that he used a couple of handfuls in a gal mix. Don't use the beeswax mix on table tops due to water spots from setting a glass of liquid on the top. I buy the Tried and True original brand mix. It has a long shelf life. If I run out and only need a small amount I will mix my own using the Maloof mix. Hope this helps

Thanks for the reply and the tip on the table tops, helps a bunch. And by the way sweet rocking chair!

[PaulMarcel]

Sam Maloof used 2 different oil finishes. One with wax added and the other without. The first is a 3 part mix. One part 100% pure tung oil, one part boiled linseed oil and one part oil poly varnish. (don't get the water based poly). Put on 4-5 coats. I only mix enough to use for each coat. He would then recommend a couple of coats of the same 3 part mix but with the beeswax added. If you read any of his books he stated that he used a couple of handfuls in a gal mix. Don't use the beeswax mix on table tops due to water spots from setting a glass of liquid on the top. I buy the Tried and True original brand mix. It has a long shelf life. If I run out and only need a small amount I will mix my own using the Maloof mix. Hope this helps

Very nice rocker, Tim!