Clavius Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 This is my first time spaying a finishing. I plan to use Sherwin Williams CAB acryilc lacquer on a maple cabinet using an Earlex 5500. I'm open to any tips you might have to get me started. A few questions I have:Do you prefer a 1.5mm or 2mm tip for lacquer?Should I thin the lacquer? I've read that thinning may cause the laquer to dry too quickly so I would also need to add a retarder.The CAB acrylic lacquer data sheet recommends applying one coat of vinyl sanding sealer. I think this gives the lacquer a better better bond and reduces the chance of peeling. Anyone use this? Will it yellow over time? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 First let me preface that I spray with a pressure gun set at 35 psi for SW vinyl sealer and CAB acrylic lacquer. My gun has a 1.7mm tip. I have sealed under lacquer with both the vinyl sealer and sealcoat (shellac). I also use a sealer as a basecoat to even the absorbtion of the stain layer. So the first coat I spray, is either sealcoat or 1:1 ratio of vinyl sealer:lacquer thinner depending on the final color I want to achieve. The sealcoat is more yellow in color compared to the vinyl sealer. This plays into the final color I'm trying to achieve. After the sealing layer, I spray the stain and wipe. Then depending on whether I want another color layer, I'll spray another coat of either the sealcoat or 1:1 vinyl sealer after the first stain layer and the 2nd layer or glaze layer. Then after I'm finished with the color layers, I'll spray a layer of 4:1 vinyl sealer:lacquer thinner. Then the lacquer layer at a 4:1 lacquer:lacquer thinner ratio. And I'll continue to spray this ratio until I get the desired appearance and build I want. The vinyl sealer does not yellow over time. I thin both the vinyl sealer and lacquer as mentioned above and do not add any retarders. And, I almost always will use the vinyl sealer and lacquer together for cabinetry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 I use a 4 stage hvlp with a 1.8mm needle and nozzle. You may find that you need retarder with your bleeder gun. The air may dry the finish before it levels, never tried it with a bleeder so you may need to experiment. Vinyl sealer will not yellow. Thin to 30 sec zahn for both the sealer and lacquer. 2 3 mil coats should net you close to 1 mil dry. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clavius Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thanks Tim and Don. My cabinet is veneered with bird's eye maple and highly figured curly maple. I think the figured wood will look great without any stains so I'll probably spray 1 layer of vinyl sealer followed by multiple coats of lacquer. I considered using Trans Tint dye to pop the figure, but I'm concerned about burning through the 1/42" veneer when sanding back the dye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 http://www.woodcentr...e-product-name/ More info on the SW CAB acrylic. Try spraying some Transtint using denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner as your transfer agent to the veneer sample test board. Once dry give it a light scuff with some 320 foam back paper. See how it goes, you may be surprised you may not actually sand through. I'm not positive, and not that familiar with the Sherwin Williams products. You may be able to skip the vinyl sealer if you don't require a ton of protection???Explain to your distributor where you are purchasing the product. They will be able to help with any concerns that you may have. Don't be afraid to speak up. That's what they are for.... to support their products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thanks Tim and Don. My cabinet is veneered with bird's eye maple and highly figured curly maple. I think the figured wood will look great without any stains so I'll probably spray 1 layer of vinyl sealer followed by multiple coats of lacquer. I considered using Trans Tint dye to pop the figure, but I'm concerned about burning through the 1/42" veneer when sanding back the dye. If this is a kitchen or bath cabinet make sure you lay down enough vinyl sealer pay attention to the edges and corners. Sand any place that has been routed / burnished. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 If this is a kitchen or bath cabinet make sure you lay down enough vinyl sealer pay attention to the edges and corners. Sand any place that has been routed / burnished. Don Sher-Wood Vinyl Sealer, T67F3, T67F5, T67F6 or T67F7, must be used as a sealer to meet the KCMA specification. Do not use any other lacquer Quoted from woodcentral about the Sherwin Williams product above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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