Help with my table saw

[markwilliams75]

Hey everyone,

I have this Craftsman table saw: Craftsman 1-1/2 hp 10" Table Saw (OR35505). I have added a Wood Worker II blade, thin kerf. When I first set up the saw it cut well. Everything was as it shold be. Now I when ever I rip I get bad results. The blade appears to paralell to the miter slot and the slot to the fence. What am I doing wrong. When I rip miters they are not perfect because it appears that the stock is moving and the fence is not paralell. I am a noob...Help me please. Does anyone know this saw?

[nateswoodworks]

I don't know your saw but the basic principle is the same on all saws. It definatly sounds like something popped out of alignment and in my opinion the best thing you can do in that case is start over and tune it up from top to bottom (Marc has a couple good video's on it as well). I know quite a while ago I had tuned up my saw and not long after that I was getting horrible quality cuts, turned out that I must have only slightly snugged up the bolts for the top and bumped it out of whack After you check everything and make sure it is all aligned if you still have problems it paints a better picture of what may be at fault, until then there are just too many variables. Just look at it as getting to know your saw better, let us know how it goes.

Nate

[Ben H]

When you say "it appears" to be in line, how have you come to that conclusion? blade/fence/miter slot should be tuned with a decent quality dial indicator.

Also, the fence on your saw, does it connect to the back side of the top? Is so, that style has the trouble of NOT locking square to the blade. When you set the front, the back can/will lock just a tad in/out of the front setting. I've always had to "adjust" the back of the fence with my fist after setting it. To see if this is your problem, set your fence to say 3". use a fixed blade ruler, not a tape measure, and see if your fence it really sitting exactly on 3" at the front of the blade. Now measure the back of the blade. If the number is different, your fence is the problem. Lots of time you can just tap it (while locked) and get it where you need it. The bad part is you have to do this every time you move your fence.

This problem is the reason the biesemeyer fence was created. The wide locking footprint doesn't require it to be attached to the rear of the saw at all.

Good luck, just take your time and you'll get it worked out.

[iSawitFirst]

Years ago I had a Craftsman table saw (different model) and the fence was horrible. I couldn't make a clean rip cut for anything. I suspect the fence is your problem.

[markwilliams75]

When you say "it appears" to be in line, how have you come to that conclusion? blade/fence/miter slot should be tuned with a decent quality dial indicator.

Also, the fence on your saw, does it connect to the back side of the top? Is so, that style has the trouble of NOT locking square to the blade. When you set the front, the back can/will lock just a tad in/out of the front setting. I've always had to "adjust" the back of the fence with my fist after setting it. To see if this is your problem, set your fence to say 3". use a fixed blade ruler, not a tape measure, and see if your fence it really sitting exactly on 3" at the front of the blade. Now measure the back of the blade. If the number is different, your fence is the problem. Lots of time you can just tap it (while locked) and get it where you need it. The bad part is you have to do this every time you move your fence.

This problem is the reason the biesemeyer fence was created. The wide locking footprint doesn't require it to be attached to the rear of the saw at all.

Good luck, just take your time and you'll get it worked out.

[markwilliams75]

You know it seems to "jump" in the rear when I lock down the front. I am using a comboniation square (good quality) that goes down to the 64th and it aligned but I never lock it down when checking. I think this is the problem, thanks. Grizzly sells a Beismeyer type shop fox after market. I have used played with it in a local tool dealer and it seems solid, any thoughts?

[markwilliams75]

Years ago I had a Craftsman table saw (different model) and the fence was horrible. I couldn't make a clean rip cut for anything. I suspect the fence is your problem.

[markwilliams75]

Yeah I don't like the fence I think I may replace it.

[jimmykx250]

I have a similar saw only older with the accu-rip fence upgrade that was at the time available from sears and I did have to tweak it considerably when i got it but since then it has worked fine. I would check things out top to bottom before you rush out to replace the fence. Unless you just want a new one!??!?! I would love a beisemeyer but i cant justify it if mine works good.

[BillN]

You know it seems to "jump" in the rear when I lock down the front. I am using a comboniation square (good quality) that goes down to the 64th and it aligned but I never lock it down when checking. I think this is the problem, thanks. Grizzly sells a Beismeyer type shop fox after market. I have used played with it in a local tool dealer and it seems solid, any thoughts?

Hold on! You check the fence position without it being locked down? My fence always moves as I lock it in, esp. if I moved it more than a few inches. I always get it to where I think it should be, lock it (it moves) then unlock it and bump it to where it needs to be. I have the Shop Fox fence you mention. With that little two step and a properly tuned saw you should get near perfect rips.