dullchiseldoug Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I'm talking with a potential customer about building a large custom rustic style table from reclaimed barn wood. They like the "bleached" lighter color as found in these pictures from Restoration Hardware's website (See also pictures here). The table pictured is made from pine and NOT protected with a finish. My customer wants some protection on the table surface to make it more durable and easier to wipe/clean while keeping the light color. I also will probably try to use a hardwood rather than pine, depending on what barn wood I can access. Any suggestions on how best to accomplish this finishing challenge? The last picture is a collapsed local barn that I have permission to take timbers from. Looks scary doesn't it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Until you decide on the wood its hard to say what process is best. Oxalic acid does a nice job and is easy to come by. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derwood Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 If you decide to go with pine in the end it's not so bad. Barn wood pine is hardy stuff, after 150-200 years of weathering and expanding and contracting, a lot of the moisture is squeezed out from the center. This gives it somewhat a hard feel. Your finger nail can go in but you will notice a world of a difference on the feel from new pine to old reclaimed pine. Key word is "old" there. Honestly I am not a fan of bleaching anything but teeth so I can't help you there. I am kinda a pine "advocate." Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derwood Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 But i did not even remotely answer your question. Lol. It depends on the wood you pick before you can go ahead and decide treatment. Almost be like buying paint for an imaginary wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Try using some TSP (trisodium phosphate) found in any box store and a good scrub brush, before you go the bleach route. Bleach may get you too white or clean looking. Bringing barn wood into the home, it's a good idea to have it kiln dried to kill off any insects in the wood. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dullchiseldoug Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Thanks all. Keep the suggestions coming! In my cursory visit to the barn site pictured above, I found both pine and oak among the larger timbers. Not sure what variety of oak it is yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyNoName Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I'm talking with a potential customer about building a large custom rustic style table from reclaimed barn wood. They like the "bleached" lighter color as found in these pictures from Restoration Hardware's website (See also pictures here). The table pictured is made from pine and NOT protected with a finish. My customer wants some protection on the table surface to make it more durable and easier to wipe/clean while keeping the light color. I also will probably try to use a hardwood rather than pine, depending on what barn wood I can access. Any suggestions on how best to accomplish this finishing challenge? The last picture is a collapsed local barn that I have permission to take timbers from. Looks scary doesn't it! Doug, what about something simple like a water-based poly and then some paste wax on top. You could even go with just paste wax. It wouldn't give a lot of protection, but it also wouldn't add much color to the wood. Just a thought, Jonathan ================================================= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dullchiseldoug Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Doug, what about something simple like a water-based poly and then some paste wax on top. You could even go with just paste wax. It wouldn't give a lot of protection, but it also wouldn't add much color to the wood. Just a thought, Jonathan ================================================= How does water-based poly hold up to heat and water exposure? (Glass water condensation rings, hot pots/pans, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 The can above is an excellent choice. Just remember no finish is 100% resistant to heat and moisture. Some do better than others. Spills should be wiped up in a reasonable amount of time. As to hot pot's and pan's, always use hot-plates/hot-pads to protect your finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyNoName Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 How does water-based poly hold up to heat and water exposure? (Glass water condensation rings, hot pots/pans, etc.) According to Bob Flexner, the advantages of water-based poly are: - minimal changing of wood color (i.e. no yellowing. He recommends it when you want to maintain a light color) - easy cleanup - low smell - less toxic The disadvantages are: - raises the grain - quick drying (a down-side for staining) - bonding on top of oil stains - not as durable as oil-based poly (but it is more durable then shellac and lacquer) I hope that helps. Jonathan ============================================== Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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