Any help laying out my shop is appreciated

[capestd]

My wonderful wife has determined that the 2 car garage should become my work shop and has urged me to fill it with whatever I need (and no you can't have her). I have never had an actual shop and have no idea how to lay it out. Here is the list of tools we recently purchased and are trying to get them situated.

52" SawStop tablesaw, 20" Jet planer, Jet 16-32 open belt sander, Jet 8" joiner, Jet bench top spindle sander, Nova 1624 lathe, split top roubo bench, router table, 14" Laguna bandsaw, bench top drill press, 10" Hitachi sliding compound miter saw on Porter Cable portable stand and a stationary Oneida 3HP Super Dust Gorilla (I can't set the location of the dust collector until I know where to put the tools. I will mainly be making cabinets and furniture and my wife does some turning.

I am also new to sketchup but have tried to do a rough layout. Any help would be welcome.

My_Shop2.skp

[STL Woodguy]

Off the bat, I'm not crazy about the location of the stationary planer as the top of it could get in the way of running larger pieces/sheets on the saw (unless moved out of the way, which may get tedious).

My best advice in small workshops is to take as much advantage of vertical space as possible, that flippable table (second planer?) back there is the right idea.

[capestd]

Thanks Ends of the World, the Planer is a monster t move.

[dmorrison]

When I was planning my 1 car bay shop I used Grizzly shop planner

http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx

Choose tools your approximate size and play. I made about 7-9 different plans and was able to figure out the best setup for me.

I would say it's mandatory to have 90% of your tools on mobile bases. You may not move the majority of them but when you have to it is much easier.

A few things Iv'e learned about Heating and Air conditioning.

If your in the south, you will need and AC. Heat is not as important. A 2 car garage that is not insulated needs about 24,000BTU. If it is insulated 18,000BTU will do.

Insulate the garage doors if they are not insulated. Loew's has a garage door insulation kit on line. I installed this and it works very well.

Insulate as much of the garage as you can.

For heat I use ceramic heaters in the shop. 3 seems to work well thoughout the season. If its below 30-35 degrees I'll just take that day off.

I am located in the Dallas/Ft. Worth metroplex.

One very important note. Your design will change over time. New tools, new flow patterns, so don't be afraid to change the layout when you need or want to.

As I have upgraded my tools over the last couple of years I have redesigned my layout 3 times. Haveing only the 1 car section of our 3 car garage

Each new tool ( larger and better of course ) has caused a redesign change.

Dave

[Torch02]

The initial thought is that you should rotate all the tools 180' with respect to the center of the garage. I think the biggest advantage woul dbe the extra infeed space you'd get from the open garage door. That's what I did with my two-car garage setup:

With the garage door open, I can move my planer (it has built-in wheels) and get pseudo-infinite infeed space from the driveway. With your drawing, it looks like you would have trouble getting long stock on the infeed side of your SawStop.

On a second look, maybe you just need to rotate those central tools (TS, planer, jointer) 180'

[capestd]

I turned the table saw as suggested and moved the planer closer to the garage door. Everything I have will be on wheels so I think this will work much better. Thanks

[Beechwood Chip]

Maybe move the table saw closer to the door? I'm thinking that with a long rip, you are currently limited on the outfeed side. With the table saw closer to the door, you have maximum outfeed (when you move the planer etc out of the way), and you have infinite infeed with the door open.

Just a thought.

[capestd]

Thanks Beechwood Chip, I moved the saw closer to the door as suggested.

[Beechwood Chip]

Do you plan to work with the door open or closed, most of the time? If open, I think this is a good layout. If closed, your previous layout might be better.

Also, you might want to organize for short rips, and move the machines on their mobile bases if you need to do a long rip.

Or, just try it one way, and then move things around as needed. When you stop moving things around, that's your shop layout!

[tim0625]

Thinking generally for a second....with a smaller shop, you need versatility. That means mobility with ease. An extreme example to make a point....If you have a 40x70 shop, plant everything, move nothing. I have a 2 car garage and use 3" castors on tools, not because of the weight they will hold; but because they roll over anything small ("giblets") instead of getting stuck. The smaller shop you have, the more versatile everything has to be. Assess what kind of work you will primarily do. If you cut a lot of long stock, the open door close to the TS is a must. My TS is turned 90 degrees to the large door because I cut a lot of 48" or less lengths but the mobile base my cabinet saw sits in, can be easily spun 90 degrees and rolled a foot to the right and I can cut long pieces. Sit and think through using each tool...that is, how you will use each tool...if you build small things like boxes or large things like furniture, the layout is different. Your shop is a nest and the bird is constantly rearranging; like some wives and furniture...as you use your shop, you will modify and rearrange. That's why I don't like running permanent things in the floor where it can't be accessed - dust collection, electrical, etc.....things that will change. I've just relocated a planer and drill press...it works better now but the dust collection had to follow. If it were in the floor - permanently installed, I would have difficulties. Again, 40x70, not such an issue. With my DC, I don't glue it. I use 4"PVC and at each connection, I put a small screw (about a #6x1/2) in each side of the connection and run a bead of caulk around the seam to seal it. Screw holds it together, caulk seals leaks BUT when I get ready to move things, it's easily done.

[capestd]

Great thoughts. Thanks, I don't do a lot of work with long stock and my biggest concern is setting up the dust collection. I think I will be better off using longer flexible hoses until I know where each tool will go. As for the electric I plan on using drop cords from the ceiling which I can move and shouldn't present a problem in the future.

[Beechwood Chip]

With a small, flexible shop, consider getting a small dust collector on casters with a short length of flex hose. Rockler makes a quick disconnect system that works pretty well, but it's only available in 4" diameter.

Long lengths of flex hose seem to ruin the DCs sucking power.

[capestd]

Originally I was going to go with Oneida's 3HP cyclone but I have opted for the 5 hp Clear Vue 1800. I'm thinking of long lengths of flex hose on an interim basis until I know for certain where everything will go then attach short flex to permanent trunk lines.