modifying a blade guard

[rodger.]

Well, my quest for better dust collection is under way. I modified the port on my jointer to accept 5" hose directly (no more adaptors) and my router table is set up for dual collection (need to get a few fittings before trying it out). Now its on to the TS.

I want to modify my Ridgid TS 3650 blade guard to accept a DC hose. I can handle all the fittings and such, but I dont know how to cut the guard itself. Anyone ever cut into their blade guard without destroying it?

I would like to put a rectangular hole in the top of the guard to accept a shop vac accessory. Then I could collect from both the blade guard and underneath. Best of all, I could save the 250 dollars that shark guard charges!

Any idea on how to cut the plastic blade guard without wrecking it?

[PaulMarcel]

Do you have a photo of the guard?

[nateswoodworks]

I am assuming that your gaurd is plastic and the hole you want is on the top? I would take a piece of plywood about 1/2 thick and dimension it to match the top of your gaurd where you want to hook up the DC, lay out the hole how you want it and cut it out (scroll saw, jig saw, dremel, magic wand). Next I would epoxy the piece of plywood to your gaurd, this will give you back the strength you will loose wwhen you put the hole in your gaurd and give you something to secure a fitting to. If you don't have a dremel to cut the hole in your gaurd drill a series of holes just inside the waste and file it to perfection. This is how I did mine, I honestly hardly ever use it, not because it doesn't work but because I just couldn't get used to a gaurd. Just my thoughts,

Nate

[rodger.]

Do you have a photo of the guard?

Here are some pics. I would like to cut the hole in the top.

[PaulMarcel]

I would think that would be easy to drill. Can't tell if you can remove the plastic from the metal part; if so, it'll make it easier.

I'd get some scraps of MDF stacked and glued to be the thickness of the opening inside the guard. Slide the guard over that MDF so the top of the guard is sitting directly on it. That stuff tends to be tough, not brittle or it would easily shatter. I'd use a holesaw to cut the hole, not a Forstner. Go slow until you get enough of a groove to track into. You'll need to clean the teeth of the holesaw often enough as the plastic tends to wrap around the teeth. It's not a high-speed operation. I've cut several plastic dohickies in my shop that way with great results. You'll get a significant burr on the top of the plastic, but nothing a file can't fix.

[tim0625]

+1 to Paul...hole saw....backing on the inside of the guard...clamp it all down....go slowly especially on the exit. They make the plastic so it's not terribly brittle to allow for things that fly so it's not as prone to split and break as some plastics. Let us know how it goes!