Tony Wilkins Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I was working on the initial polish of a blue spruce long bladed paring chisel tonight. I didn't make much headway. I couldn't seem to get a polish. I finally figured out by changing directions that I was just putting in more scratches and not failing to remove them - i.e. the scratches were almost instantly replaced with scratches going in the new direction I was moving the chisel. It's A2 steel and I was using my water stones (1,000 grit Hida and 6,000 grit King S3). So is getting a finer stone the only way I can sharpen this bad boy effectively? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Might be a silly question but, is your sharpening stone flat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Flattened it twice during the process and once before using my Atoma 400 diamond plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm_crash Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I would say the jump from a 1K to a 6K King is too much. The King S3 in itself is a very hard stone, would benefit from a nagura to produce some slurry. Even then, this 6K will take a long time to replace 1K scratches. That being said, are you not happy that the 6K leaves 6K scratch pattern behind? If that's the case, try stropping with some compound. Are you not happy with how sharp the chisel ends after the 6K? Go with a higher grit. cheers, wm_crash, the friendly hooligan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Tony, some photos of the chisel back would be cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisG Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 If the previous scratches are being replaced by new scratches that is a function of the finess of your 6k stone. Most 6k stones will leave a sorta hazing polish vs a bright polish. While bright polish ultimately has the potential to be sharper that doesn't mean the you can't get a sharp edge with a hazy polish. As a starting point don't worry whether or not you have an absolute bright mirror polish. What matters it that the polish you do get from the 6k is uniform and extends all the way to the edge. So just sharpen fully to the ability if the 6k and see how the tool cuts. For a slightly finer polish you can dry the stone of and let it load. Using it dry plugs the stone, and rounds and/or breaks down the abrasive which can give you a finer finish. This works best on hard stones that won't continue to release fresh grit so easily once dry, so it may or may not work well if you have a softish 6k, but it should step things up a level. Other than that, yes, if you want a bright polish and a sharper edge (and a paring chisel is one place where incremental improvements in edge can make a noticeable difference) you will need a finer medium of some type. This can be in the form of chromium oxide or other fine compound on mdf/or a strop Or is can be in the form of a finer stone. But again, as a starting point, see how far you can push the stone you have and try the tool with that, even if your not getting the brightest mirror polish ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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