Mike Corwin

Hi everyone - I bought these for my router table but then I upgraded my fence to a Woodpecker's and they won't work since the Woodpecker's fence is taller than normal router table fences. Pretty sure I dumped the box but otherwise these have never been used. If anyone's interested they're $80 shipped to lower 48, PayPal or Venmo. Thanks so much - Michael

Thanks @wdwerker, the UMHW is an interesting idea. I'm trying to not use metal side or undermount slides if I don't have to.

@wtnhighlanderThanks! Yes, I'm using the tip-on hardware for the inset doors but was curious how they would work with drawer boxes without metal slides. Seems like the drawer box and face might be a bit too much weight to work effectively without the ball bearings of the slides helping you out. I just don't want to use the metal slides if I don't have to.

Anybody install a push to open device on a drawer with wooden runners as opposed to side or undermount slides and if so what hardware for the push to open did you use? Thanks very much!

Sorry for the confusion. The bevel is on the 12" side. My biggest issue is having the 40+ inches hanging off my tablesaw to the left of the blade if I used a sled since my shop is small and something that long would hit another table I have. Ideally if I had a larger shop a sliding table saw would be the easiest way however it looks like the track saw method seems to be the route I'll take.

K Cooper, only because 40" or more would be hanging off the table saw and would be inviting kickback. byegge, that's an interesting idea for sure

Yes, although my cabinet sides are 12" deep by 48" long so while the 12" section is getting the 45 miter, I've got roughly 40+ inches hanging off the router table as I push the board past which seems like it'd be impossible to control.

Hi Everyone - I'm making some 48" wide plywood cabinets and would love to miter all the corners so the grain waterfalls and covers up the ply's at the same time, problem is I've never figured out how cut the bevels on long boards. If I was making small box sides I'd use a bevel sled on the tablesaw or think about using a lock miter set on the router bit table, but since the boards are 48" wide these methods don't really work since the boards are so long. Do people use a circular saw and guide for this sort of thing? That's the only way I can see doing it, problem is the repeatability in terms of accuracy seems precarious. Any ideas welcome, thanks very much.

Thanks for the advice, I completely overlooked making the groove deeper in the long grain sides to accommodate movement. Cheers!

Hi Everyone - I'm making a Federal style tea table for a client out of solid walnut. The top will be around 30" wide, and the client has requested that there be a raised-lip moulding so that nothing can roll off. I was thinking of cutting a tongue on the tabletop and making some moulding with a groove in it and attaching it to the top with mitered corners like a picture frame, however I'm sure that the wood movement across the width of the top would blow the miters open in time. What is the best way of attaching this raised moulding to the top with consideration to wood movement? Attached is a photo of the basic concept, any info would be most helpful!

I really need something super white for inlay, hence Holly. Sweet avatar by the way!

Thanks everybody for the info! I was made aware of Tropical Hardwoods in Carlsbad, which is a couple hours away from me. I had no idea that Holly is $35 a board foot, so I may look into veneer sheets instead.

Thanks very much for the info wdwerker. Great advice for the future, although unfortunately I need to source the Holly in the next week or so for an upcoming project.

Hi Everyone - I'm having a bear of a time sourcing Holly for inlay. I'm in Los Angeles and no one near me stocks it. Anyone have a good source? It'd be nice to get it in lumber form so I can resew it myself to thickness. Bell Forrest only has a few boards and most of them are full of knots. Thanks everyone!

Does anyone have a good reference (book or dvd) on the process of weaving Danish cord for seat bottoms? I've only found a few videos but none take you from the beginning. Any references would be helpful, thanks!