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Vetteman

Walnut Burl Veneer

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Can someone tell me how they finish Walnut Burl veneer.  What type of glue do you use? What is a sanding sealer and how to apply it and then how to finish it. I'm having such a hard time with Walnut Burl veneer.

 

Marc, please do a video on Walnut Burl veneer.

 

Thanks,

 

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It is 1/42". I've finished walnut burl with using the white Gorilla Glue on mdf in a vacuum press. then i'll put a coat of tung oil. let that dry. then i'll put two coats of Minwax or Deft poly satin spray (out of the can) with a rub down with 4ot steel wool between coats. Then I finish with paste wax and buff by hand . It come out pretty good but I know I could do better. Make it look a lot better. I've read that people are putting a sanding sealer. I don't know what that is, I've never done that before. Can someone explain in detail what and why a sanding sealer is used for. Basically, what it your recipe for finishing walnut burl veneer.

Oh ya, the%2

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This is walnut burl. Hammer veneered with hot hide glue. Scraped, wet sanded with 220 and linseed oil, finished with a linseed oil alkyd varnish, and rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and wax. Don't over complicate it. Walnut burl is exciting enough on its own. It really doesn't need anything more than an oil finish to make it stunning.

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Sanding sealer is a diluted finish usually with zinc stearate added to it to make it easier to sand. Some people just make their own by thinning it themselves like a 1 lbs cut if shellac. 

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Bob, thanks for the reply. But I still don't understand what you mean whey you say, "wet sanded with 220 and linseed oil". Do you mean that you poured on the linseed oil straight from the can on to the burl and sanded at the same time with 220 grit sandpaper and thats what causes some kind of slurry and then you wiped it all off with a rag and let dry for a few days.

 

Thanks

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Bob, thanks for the reply. But I still don't understand what you mean whey you say, "wet sanded with 220 and linseed oil". Do you mean that you poured on the linseed oil straight from the can on to the burl and sanded at the same time with 220 grit sandpaper and thats what causes some kind of slurry and then you wiped it all off with a rag and let dry for a few days.

Thanks

Exactly! The slurry helps fill the pores without the chalkiness of actual pore filler. Plus it's naturally the same color as the wood, obviously, so there's no fuss with color differences. As a side benefit, because you're wet sanding, there's no airborne dust. And it gives the surface an almost buttery smooth feel without having to build up a bunch of coats of film finish and then sanding them back. The linseed oil alkyd varnish top coat is 60% thinner and 40% oil based alkyd varnish (Minwax antique oil). It really doesn't build much, but seals everything nicely and provides a nice satin sheen. I put 2 coats, hit it with 400, a third coat, then 0000 and wax. The surface still feels like wood but it has a bit of protection from the alkyd resin. It's one of my favorite finishing schedules and rediculously easy to boot.

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