lexugax Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Hello. So I have been trying to finish this walnut table for weeks now and I am very frustrated. I have been using minwax OIL based poly. I apply a coat with a brush, sand lightly with 220 as instructions say, then apply a second coat. Well, after the second coat dries, I CAN STILL SEE THE SCRATCH MARKS from the sanding of the first coat! How is this possible? By the third coat I would have a horrible mess that I won't be able to rub off. I have applied water based poly on cherry with very good results with a pre-coat of amber shellac. I know that water based poly gives walnut a whitish/bluish hue, but is there any way that I can use water poly and not get that look? If not, am I doing something wrong with the oil poly? I would really appreciate some help, since I'm about to take the table and make a bonfire with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 After the first coat, move to 320 and 400 grit sandpaper, backed with a cork or hard rubber block. You could thoroughly sand what you've got with 220, then with 320, remove all dust, then apply another coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Like Cessna said, use higher grits. Once I have a coat of finish on a piece it never sees anything lower than 400 grit unless I have to fix a run, sag or some other finishing defect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Well the problem is .... do you have enough finish on the wood to sand? Are you thinning the poly? If so, don't sand until after the second coat. Sand is a bad word. Scuff sand is better, very light touch or a wipe. In my book 220 is to coarse. 320 can be a little to aggressive on thin finishes. If your going to use 320, use foam back paper. It's the best for that job and forces you to have a light touch. I would suggest as Barry said. 400 is a good starting point. I like to use 600 wet dry paper on a corked back wood block. The goal is to knock down the high spots and give the finish a little tooth for the next coat to hold onto. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexugax Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Wow, thank you all for the quick replies. I guess water based poly is a no no, since nobody mentioned it. Ace, I don't think the poly, and use a foam brush, so I think I am getting a nice coat. I will try again using much finer sandpaper and a lighter touch before each next coat. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 I have not experienced the blue/white hue on a cured water-based finish, as you mention. I use General Finishes products and that hasn't been an issue -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 I use General Finishes products and that hasn't been an issue GF has waterbased finishes nailed... I switched from another brand last year, due to changing local availability. As good as my previous choice was, the GF stuff is simply terrific. Not cheap, but a great value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexugax Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 GF has waterbased finishes nailed... I switched from another brand last year, due to changing local availability. As good as my previous choice was, the GF stuff is simply terrific. Not cheap, but a great value. What brand were you using before? Also where do you find the GF brand? I haven't seen it at any of my local stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 I was using ML Campbell products. Neither brand is sold in home centers. GF is sold by Woodcraft and other woodworking suppliers, ML Campbell is sold through professional finish suppliers and some paint stores. General Finishes sells both water and solvent based products, and I've yet to meet one I didn't love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 +1 on GF water based. I love the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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