lildesertwoodshop Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 So I have a few tables I built and finished the tops with Epoxy and Arm R Seal Satin. The came out great and smooth as glass. My problem is there seems to be a few SPECS of dust on them. Is there a process to sort these out ? Thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Are they specs, or pin holes? Specs should be able to rub out / polish. Pin holes on the other hand will require more coats of finish to completely fill.. Are you able to see the blemishes on a pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hey Boatworks, Nope not pin holes , air born specs pin tip size, (to tiny for photo or the eye can only be felt by hand) Rub out / polish I think is the answer please elaborate on the products and process to do this as its totally new to me thanx !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 ==> Epoxy and Arm R Seal Satin Got to be a bit careful... Traditional rubbing-out assumes a hard-cure finish (think shellac, lacquer, etc). You also need to really let the surface cure... Epoxy hardens in 24hrs, but typically cures after 4 days... I think it's 3 days for ARS, but haven't checked in a while... One of 'quick-and-dirty' tricks is to rub the surface with a brown-paper-bag... It's quick and easy to try and, in some cases, all you need... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Well, this is my process others may have their own tricks . If the nibs are pretty bad I'll start with 600 grit wet / dry paper on a sanding block and lightly go over the whole surface. It's helpful to use some mineral oil or soapy water for lube (helps keep the paper from clogging). After that I'll free hand (no block) and work through the grits 1000, 1500, 2000 sanding with the grain. ** Since your topcoat was a dulled finish (satin), you'll need to make sure that the surface is uniformly dull from the sanding otherwise there may be patches that are glossier than others.. Once I get to this point, I'll hand rub with a buffing compound (I'm a boat guy so I always have marine products on hand, but most automotive compounds will work as well) and a cotton cloth. The more you work it the more gloss you'll get. Once it's where I like it then I'll go over with a coat or two of paste wax and call it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Dust nibs, use a razor blade as a scraper then polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 To get rid of dust nibs I use Mirka Mirlon (1500 or 2500 Grit depending on the sheen I want) & MS. I wipe the surface down with with a rag soaked in MS and then hit it with the Mirlon by hand. As long as you keep the surface wet, it's easy to clean up with a clean shop paper towel. As others have said, make sure your finish is completely cured before you start removing nibs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Thanx all I will let these set for a few days then proceed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 ==> I use Mirka Mirlon That stuff looks pretty cool... I use Mirka's Abralon and the fine orbit CEROS for rub-out... I gave up on the traditional rotten stone/pumice/etc schedule when Abralon hit the street... And good riddance... Much faster/cleaner/etc. The #4000 Abralon leaves a great finish and worth a try for all you in WTO land still using abrasive powders... I'll get a roll of Mirlon and see how it compares -- it's probably more cost effective than using Abralon pads to get into corners/edges/etc... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 I think it's an excellent product. It's like a quality steel wool, only much higher grit. ==> I use Mirka Mirlon That stuff looks pretty cool... I use Mirka's Abralon and the fine orbit CEROS for rub-out... I gave up on the traditional rotten stone/pumice/etc schedule when Abralon hit the street... And good riddance... Much faster/cleaner/etc. The #4000 Abralon leaves a great finish and worth a try for all you in WTO land still using abrasive powders... I'll get a roll of Mirlon and see how it compares -- it's probably more cost effective than using Abralon pads to get into corners/edges/etc... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 Oh so again Thanx all for taking the time to lend some advise ! . So all processes / product suggestions will certainly be filed for future reference , however as the Turkey day and goings on inhibited me from collecting any products I went with what I had on hand. Triple H your brown paper bag gag worked famously!! Great tip !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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