LN # 48?

[spwiz5578]

I'm planning a frame and panel chest for a baby shower gift for my sister in law. It has 4 thick legs that will not only receive the tenons of the top and bottom rails, but also the slots to hold the panels. They're going to be 1/4" x 1/4" and I was thinking of investing in a Lie Nielsen tongue and groove plane. I figure it will be a good way to make uniform grooves around the whole chest as well as form the joinery for the bottom (which will be T&G pine). Any thoughts?

Here's a link if you're unfamiliar ----> http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=1-48

Thanks for the input!

Sean

[Bobby Slack]

Sean the only guy I know who owns one of this is Shannon Rogers. I heard Shannon brag in an old WTO Radio about this tool and we all were jealous and happy for him.

[Jonathryn]

I've heard really nice things about those planes. But I think that if any of those grooves will be stopped grooves (on the long legs?), that a router plane would be more useful to you. Both LN and LV make nice ones and you can sometimes snag an old Stanley or Millers Falls from ebay. The LV comes with a 1/4-inch blade but I think it costs extra if you get the LN one. Router planes are also incredibly useful for other things, like dadoes, tenons, rabbets, inlay, stuff like that. I think the 48 is used mostly for making T&G on the backs of carcases like book cases, or to make beadboard "wainscoting." I guess you could also use it to make grooves in box bottoms, maybe cutting boards.

[Bob Rozaieski]

The #48 is made for centering a tongue and groove on the edge of 3/4" stock. So you will only be able to plough a groove at 1/4" from the edge of the leg. If you are ok with this, then it should work fine. However, if your leg stock is thick and you want to move the groove closer to the center of the stock, then this is not the plane you want to use. The fence is not adjustable. You'd be better off with a plow plane (for through grooves) or a router plane (for stopped grooves) for making the grooves for the panels.

The #48 will work beautiful for making the T&G bottom boards though.

[spwiz5578]

Thanks for all the replies. I was hoping Shannon would chime in on this one, maybe I'll have to hit him up to check in here. I had thought of a router plane, but without a fence a plow plane may be a better option. Thankfully the design calls for the rails and stiles to be flush with the outside face of the legs, so a 1/4" groove inset 1/4" will work perfectly for this application. there are stopped grooves in the legs, so a router plane will also be helpful. Seeing as I don't have either a #48 or router plane, I'm hoping santa is good to me this year.

[Jonathryn]

I love plough planes, but they can't do stopped grooves either. A full-size router plane with a 1/4" blade and a fence would probably be your best bet.

[RenaissanceWW]

Not sure how I missed this post originally but better late than never right. I love my LN 48 plus I have a vintage Stanley too. The LN version is much nicer because my vintage one is kinda beat up. This is a great plane specifically for tongue and groove joinery but beyond that I wouldn't use it for much else. As Bob said above the fence is not adjustable so it is very restrictive in usage. (this is why is makes such nice T&G joints) For what you have planned a router plane would be good but remember this is not a heavy removal tools so it will take some time to sink those stopped grooves. Since they are not set back too far then you could use the #48 but you will need to hand cut a relief area at the ends of the groove using a chisel to allow room for the plane skate to run in. So seeing as you still will be making T&G flooring for the bottom, if you can only buy one plane then the 48 would make sense. As far as flexibility in joinery for future projects, you might be better off with plow and router planes. All this being said, don't underestimate what a good chisel and marking gauge can do to sink a groove. Might take a little longer but it will teach you a lot about chisel use.