My playground

[Kenny]

a few shots of my latest acquisition and it's new surroundings.

Picked up this old table saw/jointer combo this past weekend. It's in pretty decent shape considering it's age.

A quick disassemble and clean up and it's ready to go. This saw has a tilting and raising table and the blade stays stationary, should be some fun.

before shots...

and where they reside now...

The shop is a 20x20 building behind my house, but not connected to the driveway...I knew when putting it up, if it was connected, there would probably

be car's, motorcycles and other silly thigs in the way. SWMBO has a portion walled off for her craft supplies, but I still manage with whats left.

Still need to find {and find room for} a planer, lathe and....

Anyways...this is where I play and hope to learn some skills, now that I've found you all.

[petersb]

Well, that's a pretty nice dog house, and tools to boot! How it the tilting table top saw to use?

[Kenny]

Thanks...I couldn't say how it actually acts...I jumped the gun when I said they were ready to go, I need belts and another pulley on the motor

{Both are coming today-fringe benefits of the Mrs managing an auto parts store } and to bolt it to the stand. Oh yeah...I did get the table insert

with the saw, but it's some kind of cast metal or stamped steel, & a very sloppy fit. I'd just as soon use zero clearance wood inserts anyways.

I forget to mention exactly what these tools are...the TS is an 8 inch Delta Rockwell, model #34-160 and the jointer{same

maker-unknown model} is 4 inch, & the year of manufacture 'I believe' is 1949. Supposedly everything was bought as a package deal{saw/jointer/motor & stand}

Here is a shot of it tilted, & like I said, should be some fun{lol}...we'll soon see!

[bywc]

looks kinda scary lol but still pretty neat!

[petersb]

Thanks...I couldn't say how it actually acts...I jumped the gun when I said they were ready to go, I need belts and another pulley on the motor

{Both are coming today-fringe benefits of the Mrs managing an auto parts store } and to bolt it to the stand. Oh yeah...I did get the table insert

with the saw, but it's some kind of cast metal or stamped steel, & a very sloppy fit. I'd just as soon use zero clearance wood inserts anyways.

I forget to mention exactly what these tools are...the TS is an 8 inch Delta Rockwell, model #34-160 and the jointer{same

maker-unknown model} is 4 inch, & the year of manufacture 'I believe' is 1949. Supposedly everything was bought as a package deal{saw/jointer/motor & stand}

Here is a shot of it tilted, & like I said, should be some fun{lol}...we'll soon see!

Well that is really cool!

You may have already have thought of this but, be careful of the offcuts when running wood through the saw. I haven't used one like this but, it seems to me that with the table tilted like that, that the offcut peice would be drawn into the blade from the gravity and the tilt of the table, and could create a situation where a kickback could occur. Like I said, I haven't used one of these so it may not be an issue. I would think that a small splitter might help?

Have fun and be safe.

[Kenny]

Paul, you've got the scary part right, but it's nothing compared to how scary I am, with thinking I'm a craftsman{LOL}

Thanks for the heads up Brett, not sure how often I would use it for beveling{being the router table is my favorite}, but I think

maybe having the fence on the other/upper side may be the way to attempt it...let the cut-off fall away???

Now, to let my 'noobishness' show...What is, or is there, a difference between a splitter and a riving knife? And can one be attached

to the insert itself? I'm using 1/2" ply for inserts...any direction/thoughts/rules would sure be appreciated!

[petersb]

Having the offcut fall away sounds good but now the piece that you want to save is going to have the tendancy to want to fall away from the fence and into the blade. Still doesn't sound ideal. Also if you are ripping long boards, the extra weight of the piece hanging off of the back of the saw with the table tilted could be like a lever and have mechanical advantage drawing the piece into the blade and also using the tail of the cut piece that rides along the fence as the fulcrum. It could bind between the fence and the blade that is angled in the direction of the fence.

As far as the difference between a splitter and a riving knife, I don't know. My initial guess is that the knife raises and lowers with the blade hieght and the splitter stays at one level???? There probably is a difference but I don't know what it is. All I know it that either would help prevent keeping the cut material from drifting/binding into the spinning blade and causing a kickback. A splitter could me made and attached to the throat insert. I have seen some pretty simple wood ones before. The key is to get it aligned with the blade. Every time you tilt the table/blade angle, a different insert would have to be installed with a splitter at that angle. There must be another way. If there is, hopefully someone will share their ideas. I don't have any experience with a table tilting saw.

[Beechwood Chip]

I don't know if there's an official definition, but here's what I've seen/heard:

• Riving Knife------------------------Splitter
• Works for non-through cuts--------------------- Remove for non-through cuts
• Goes up and down with blade------------------Usually fixed height
• Curves around back of blade--------------------Often doesn't
• Very close to blade---------------------------------Usually not so close
  
• Nope---------------------------------------------------Can carry anti-kickback palls
• Nope---------------------------------------------------Can carry a blade guard

Riving Knife

and Paul-Marcel reminded me of

[PaulMarcel]

I agree with Beech except maybe the better/worse part. They are different. For through-cuts, my opinion is the splitter is better since most splitters have anti-kickback pawls. Plus in my case the guard on the splitter is fantastic for dust collection.

[Beechwood Chip]

Good points, PM.

And those rules aren't clear cut. Some splitters go up and down with the blade and wrap around the blade like a riving knife, but are taller and carry a blade guard and palls.

Maybe it's better to say that a splitter is taller than the blade and can carry a blade guard and anti-kickback palls, and a riving knife is not taller than the blade and can't carry those safety accessories.

And, there are some things which can switch from splitter to riving knife mode (eg Bosch 4100).

I think I'll edit my post to add the blade guard and palls.

Thanks!

[Kenny]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info/breakdown...very informative!

Now before I drift off into web-land, any recommendations as to where to start a search for an aftermarket splitter with the safety devises?

[nateswoodworks]

That is a pretty cool saw. Honestly I think you are going to have a hard time finding a splitter of riving knife to fit your saw but you can surely make one by inserting a strip of wood or metal into your throat plate like this or use an alternative like this Have fun and great looking shop.

Nate

[Kenny]

That is a pretty cool saw. Honestly I think you are going to have a hard time finding a splitter of riving knife to fit your saw but you can surely make one by inserting a strip of wood or metal into your throat plate like this or use an alternative like this Have fun and great looking shop.

Nate

Thanks Nate, think I'll try the MJ one, it comes with an alignment jig for drilling, which has to be an advantage vs my old tired eyes{lol}...I appreciate the help!