Ryoba newbie needs advice

[Jim DaddyO]

So, I needed a new hand saw this year. My old beat up, cheap western saw was not doing the job after years of abuse. So, I went to Lee Valley and bought one of the modern ryoba saws. I thought it was a good choice as it doubles as a crosscut and a ripping saw. I have tried it out a few different ways and I am not happy with MY (not the saws) cuts. I can follow a line pretty good, but I seem to wander vertically in the cut. Yes, I am putting some pressure on it otherwise the cut takes forever. Is there any tips on improving my technique? First off....do you start the cut closest to you, or at the edge farthest from you as you would with a western saw? Seems to me, I get better acuracy pulling it down and sawing away from me sometimes....not always, though, it makes following the line a bit harder...lol. I am thinking I may have to go back to western style, but I would love to give this thing a fair shot, so I should do a bit of learning.

[nikbrown]

I start on the farthest edge and as soon as I bring the saw cut all the way across the width of the board I switch to a downward pulling stroke. This helps me establish a clean top edge. The downward stroke is much more efficient. Another tip it to make sure your work is low enough that you can use your entire arm in a swinging motion.

I've been using my pull saws for a while and my most recent cuts still gave me problem....s 12/4 x 7" wide ash.... yuck. Every time my cuts wander I have to remind myself to not put pressure on the saw. You have to let the saw do the cutting.

I've Personally never use the LV saws so I can't speak to them. But I started with a Marples pull saw I got at Home Depot and still use it for yard work so I'm sure you have a great saw.

[wilburpan]

I have a couple of videos on things to consider when using a Japanese saw. The first one is here, the second is here.

First off....do you start the cut closest to you, or at the edge farthest from you as you would with a western saw?

For me, it depends on what type of cut I'm trying to make. For shorter cuts, or cuts where I need to be accurate, I'll start on the near side. For longer cuts, I'll start at the far end and come across the board towards me.

I've been using my pull saws for a while and my most recent cuts still gave me problem....s 12/4 x 7" wide ash.... yuck. Every time my cuts wander I have to remind myself to not put pressure on the saw. You have to let the saw do the cutting.

7" wide 12/4 ash? That's impressive. It bears repeating that you have to not put downward pressure on the saw, and let the teeth do the cutting.

Frank Klausz says the same thing about sawing: "Try to cut and not to go down." If this tip is good enough for Frank Klausz, it's good enough for me.

[jhl.verona]

Thanks for the videos, Wilbur.

I'm beginning too, the saws will be here in a couple of days, or a year, depending on the mood of the Italian postal service.

Meanwhile I have a few links that may help a little (though not as much as the videos):

1. Extract from "The Workbench book" by Scott Landis: http://books.google....6izCsC&pg=PA151

2. Extract from American Woodworker: http://books.google....AAAMBAJ&pg=PA48

3. Christopher Schwarz comparing east/west saws: http://www.popularwo...s_Western_Saws/ (the super low saw horses shown in the photos are on my build list, and ref 1 pp 156 shows how they're built)

4. "Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit, and Use" by Toshio Odate - it's in the post, I'll let you know when I've read it...

HTH

John

[nikbrown]

I have a couple of videos on things to consider when using a Japanese saw. The first one is here, the second is here.

For me, it depends on what type of cut I'm trying to make. For shorter cuts, or cuts where I need to be accurate, I'll start on the near side. For longer cuts, I'll start at the far end and come across the board towards me.

7" wide 12/4 ash? That's impressive. It bears repeating that you have to not put downward pressure on the saw, and let the teeth do the cutting.

Frank Klausz says the same thing about sawing: "Try to cut and not to go down." If this tip is good enough for Frank Klausz, it's good enough for me.

Yea thanks for the videos wilber!!! I always am up for improving my technique!!!!!

This is a shot of the 12/4 ash I was cutting after I installed it (you can see the rest on the bench). My Gyokucho 240mm ryoba was NOT the right saw for this I really need to get a 270 or 300 if I'm going to deal with stock of this size!

[Jim DaddyO]

Wow...thanks for all the responses folks! First, I was working with the piece too high...late in the job my wife, who is short, put a piece on the deck and used the saw between the boards and stood on the piece....that was a clue. I guess I have to lighten my touch too...lol. One thing though, is that I cannot squat, and getting up and down to the floor is quite the ordeal, but I will perservere and keep trying...Thanks again. The vids and articles were great!

Jim

[wilburpan]

2. Extract from American Woodworker: http://books.google....AAAMBAJ&pg=PA48

Thanks for the link to Jay Van Arsdale's article! I had not seen that one before. Odate's book is great. You'll really enjoy reading it.

This is a shot of the 12/4 ash I was cutting after I installed it (you can see the rest on the bench). My Gyokucho 240mm ryoba was NOT the right saw for this

In other breaking news, it is hard to chop a mortise in black locust.