DeanJackson Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 Why can't I use the table saw as a jointer (on the edges), especially on shorter boards? A jointer plane is 2' long at most. My table saw fence is at least the same length. I can't figure out why planing one face, then planing the opposite face, then making several passes with a table saw on the edges wouldn't yield at least as square of a board as a jointer handplane. One caveat; I'm assuming the board is *stable* going through the planer, and not wobbling as it goes; same with the table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignWave Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 I use a Diablo 60T blade on my Ridgid R4511 with the stock fence, and the cut comes out very smooth. Each pass only a tiny fraction of a pass, maybe half the blade width or less. I basically bump the fence a tiny bit between cuts and always run the board through on both sides, starting with the cut on the convex side. I'm considering creating an extension to go over the fence and extend it in front and behind, in order to handle longer boards. Basically a long, narrow torsion box, if that makes any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 Why can't I use the table saw as a jointer (on the edges), especially on shorter boards? A jointer plane is 2' long at most. My table saw fence is at least the same length. I can't figure out why planing one face, then planing the opposite face, then making several passes with a table saw on the edges wouldn't yield at least as square of a board as a jointer handplane. One caveat; I'm assuming the board is *stable* going through the planer, and not wobbling as it goes; same with the table saw. It should work. Your scenario is really no different than using a power planer/jointer to surface 3 sides, then using the table saw to cut the last edge. Works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 +2... I agree with SignWave and Ben... if one edge is pretty straight (or at least concave to the fence), I'll run it to skim the far side, turn and repeat. Usually takes very little time. I don't have a power jointer either so I use this often. If the edge is crazy wavy, I use the tracksaw (or if I need to straighten grain that's skew to the board). The long fence SignWave mentioned would be helpful. I think it's Rick LoDico who has some monster jointing fence, but I could be wrong. Hmm, or Rob Horton... where's my coffee... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 I also saw a video where someone used the Grr-ripper to edge joint boards on a table saw but I can't remember where I saw the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanJackson Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I'm considering creating an extension to go over the fence and extend it in front and behind, in order to handle longer boards. Basically a long, narrow torsion box, if that makes any sense. A fence-covering add-on fence would be damn perfect here; great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick LoDico Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Why can't I use the table saw as a jointer (on the edges), especially on shorter boards? A jointer plane is 2' long at most. My table saw fence is at least the same length. I can't figure out why planing one face, then planing the opposite face, then making several passes with a table saw on the edges wouldn't yield at least as square of a board as a jointer handplane. One caveat; I'm assuming the board is *stable* going through the planer, and not wobbling as it goes; same with the table saw. If you want to joint on the TS, it's best to use a jig like this one. One pass and you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanJackson Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 If you want to joint on the TS, it's best to use a jig like this one. One pass and you're done. That particular jig is larger than my entire shop, I think. :-) I need to take a decent camera downstairs one day and shoot some pictures of the shop space I have. It's efficient, for the most part, but even if everything including the bench was out of it, I'm not sure you could park a car in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jab73180 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2010/03/26/podcast-44-5-surprising-woodworking-techniques-you-didnt-know-about/ check out this link. it has some good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignWave Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2010/03/26/podcast-44-5-surprising-woodworking-techniques-you-didnt-know-about/ check out this link. it has some good info. Thanks for the link. The video is a little rough at the beginning, but that looks like something that will really work, and better than what I had in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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