davionics Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Hello all, I can sure say things have finally fallen in place and because of deciding to live elsewhere and selling our retirement property, I'm currently building my own shop. This will be 28' x 34' and will be a dedicated wood shop. I've been doing like so many others on this site and other sites, search the internet, read articles in books/magazines until it's all a jumble in your head and you really don't care anymore, you just want it finished. Anyway, I will be doing all the interior work but there are some things that I haven't quite made up my mind on yet and others I have so I'm wondering what you all think? The ceiling height is 11' so I've had (6) 2'H x 5'L awning windows installed with the bottom of the window at 8'. I'm figuring this will give me enough light, plenty of wall space but the disadvantage is having to use a stool to open/close them but I don't foresee that as a problem. Most of the equipment I will eventually have can run 110V or 220V so I'm planning to run them at 220V. From my understanding this will consume the same electricity but will be better for the equipment in the long run... The lights I've decided to put up are (16) 4', 4 bulb florescent lights throughout the shop; I'm hoping this is enough. Considering it's currently only a high of 20 degrees or something like that here in Dayton, heating this place may be an issue. The walls and ceiling are all 2" x 6" lumber and will be insulated and dry walled. My concern is not having to wait for the shop to heat up enough to work in, but it's more of the drastic temperature swings being hard on stored wood or even worse, projects that are currently in work, or finishing or gluing etc. I would think it may be better to keep the shop at a minimum low temp like 40 - 50 degrees and this would help reduce condensation on tools etc.... again, I think. If anyone has any suggestions, likes or dislikes etc. feel free to let me know. What do you think about posting pictures as this is being built? Happy woodworking!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Dave, if you use the shop regularly, and set the minimum on the thermostat to 45, it should never reach that if the building is properly air sealed and insulated. But, that is the minimum I set mine to for long absences. It's really more for my glues and finishes than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Sounds like a great space. As for the pics, yes. Pics are good. We love them all. And as for the heat, what kind of heating system are you putting in? That can make all the differenc in the world. Another contributing factor is what kind of insulation are you using? These will help with your answers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Dave, if you use the shop regularly, and set the minimum on the thermostat to 45, it should never reach that if the building is properly air sealed and insulated. But, that is the minimum I set mine to for long absences. It's really more for my glues and finishes than anything else. I should have know that you would be on this like stink on crap..Vic is our local energy conservation specialist. He is the man to talk to about sealing your place up and keeping it warm for cheap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petersb Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Well is sure sounds like you are off to a great start! I don't have anything to add other than... Let's see some pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Read Heating the Shop and Lighting the Shop in the shop room of the forum. Feel free to pm me or Saddlestrum if you have and questions on energy efficient building. Yea. I volunteered ya, Don! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davionics Posted December 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Here's a current pic of the garage/shop, I hope I didn't size it too small. As you can see it's definitely in the beginning stages. I will build a wall to separate the front two bays from the back and the back will be the shop. Notice the place for the windows is high up, I think this will work out really good. As far as insulation I plan on using batt? insulation on the walls but not fiberglass. I going to try and be as respectful to my neighbors as possible and use something that works better as a sound barrier so I can work late nights if I want to. I'm thinking of the same batt insulation in the ceiling but also blown insulation on top later on. the attic will be vented so I'm not sure if the blown insulation is over kill or not. I haven't decided on how to heat/cool the building yet. I would like to keep the garage area warm in the winter because I'm hoping in 2012 the second bay will house a boat and all my auto tools will be in there but the overall building is 1900sf so it's basically heating an entire house. At a minimum I would like to keep the shop a decent temp and have the ability to heat or cool the garage area when needed so I'm looking into how to best accomplish this without breaking the bank. Remember, I can only have this built and talk about a future boat because of the property I recently sold. Once it's done, I'm back to being on a budget again. I'm all ears for ideas as to best set up the garage/shop... I'll just call it a shop... The garage doors are extra insulated,the exterior walls are osb with the plastic on the outside then the hardie board as siding. I did read all the lighting replies and it other than color, it really seems to be personal preference on which way to go. I think I'm just going to go with the 16 fixtures with 4 florescent bulbs each at 4' long. I may add a few and if it's too much I can always take out some bulbs. This will be easier than trying to add later on. Also I'll probably throw in some different color bulbs into each fixture to adjust the overall color until I like it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Here's a current pic of the garage/shop, I hope I didn't size it too small. As you can see it's definitely in the beginning stages. I will build a wall to separate the front two bays from the back and the back will be the shop. Notice the place for the windows is high up, I think this will work out really good. As far as insulation I plan on using batt? insulation on the walls but not fiberglass. I going to try and be as respectful to my neighbors as possible and use something that works better as a sound barrier so I can work late nights if I want to. I'm thinking of the same batt insulation in the ceiling but also blown insulation on top later on. the attic will be vented so I'm not sure if the blown insulation is over kill or not. I haven't decided on how to heat/cool the building yet. I would like to keep the garage area warm in the winter because I'm hoping in 2012 the second bay will house a boat and all my auto tools will be in there but the overall building is 1900sf so it's basically heating an entire house. At a minimum I would like to keep the shop a decent temp and have the ability to heat or cool the garage area when needed so I'm looking into how to best accomplish this without breaking the bank. Remember, I can only have this built and talk about a future boat because of the property I recently sold. Once it's done, I'm back to being on a budget again. I'm all ears for ideas as to best set up the garage/shop... I'll just call it a shop... The garage doors are extra insulated,the exterior walls are osb with the plastic on the outside then the hardie board as siding. I did read all the lighting replies and it other than color, it really seems to be personal preference on which way to go. I think I'm just going to go with the 16 fixtures with 4 florescent bulbs each at 4' long. I may add a few and if it's too much I can always take out some bulbs. This will be easier than trying to add later on. Also I'll probably throw in some different color bulbs into each fixture to adjust the overall color until I like it. Dave Don't mix bulbs, it will look like crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davionics Posted December 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Does everyone agree it is better to run a machine at 220V versus 110V if it's capable of both? I also plan on putting in a wood floor in the shop. It will be just high enough for the lumber and solid foam insulation and I'll probably run power to a couple of machines under the floor too. Any idea if I should have more than just a plywood floor? There are definitely some great ideas across this site so I hope to use some of your ideas. Thanks... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 What do you mean more than a plywood floor. Is over concrete? I have a crawlspace, so all my DC and outlets for floor machines come up from the crawl. I have 5/8 recycled exterior plywood glued and nailed to the joists, 3/4 inch T&G OSB glue and nailed perpendicular to the 5/8 and then 1/8" Luan plywood screwed without glue perpendicular to the 3/4". 2 foot on center and my joists are BCIs (wooden I beam). I beefed up under my jointer, as it is 1000lbs and spans and is in line with two joists. Regarding 220 vs 110..it's negligible in affect, but I'd still go 220, if you have room in your panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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