Curly Maple and Walnut Finishing

[gsxturbo11]

Hi Guys,

Newb woodworker here, just wanted to get peoples thoughts on the finishing process of a walnut/curly maple project. I'm trying to catch the "3D" look of the curly maple and I've read a bunch about that process but my question is if I should also use that process with the parts that I have with the curly maple inset into the walnut? I'm thinking of using shellac with amber and then some type of top coat. I would appreciate any insight anyone could offer the new guy!

Kevin

[gsxturbo11]

Hi Ace, I haven't done a single thing to it yet. I'm getting to the point where I have all my pieces ready to be assembled and at some point I have to start staining. I have a few curly maple inlays that are probably 8"x8" that are surrounded by walnut. I've just read so many different ways to do it I'm just not sure which way a new person just getting into this should go.

[AceHoleInOne]

Oops sorry I must of hit the wrong button and deleted my post?

-Ace-

[AceHoleInOne]

Well there is a multitude of ways to enhance the grain. What are you making?

-Ace-

[gsxturbo11]

its one of those jewelry armior jobbers, like 7 drawers stands like 4 feet high

[raruss1]

I have found that the smaller the item the more you have to use dye to enhance the pop since there is less area for the variations in the wood. My advice is to get a bunch of pieces and run a series of tests.

these are the things I have learned/tried to get the figure to pop on maple:

My explanation is not scientific and might not be the best way but I have found these to work for me

1. if I add no color, I sand it a little higher than normal -- even up to 320 this seems to increase the variation differences in absorption of the oils. Then add an oil to get the pop, BLO will add yellow and pop it or Danish or Seal-A-Cell will not change the color as much, these seem to penetrate deeper into the wood and accentuate the areas that are more thirsty then to just start with a wiping varnish. I have not tried to thin the wiping varnish, so this might also work. Then add your filming topcoats like Arm-R-Seal or a Gel Varnish. after each coat sand very lightly. for first coat sand with 320, the next coat use 400, then 600 then 1200. I have found the sanding seems to give it more depth.

2. Marc's video Pop, Goes the Maple follow his recipe, this is more dramatic and seems to give smaller pieces the oomph.

There are probably other ways but I use these and they work well enough to satisfy me, if I can find my test pieces, I will photo and post but I think they got used in the wood stove after I was done experimenting.

[AceHoleInOne]

I like Renee's approach.

Sometimes with a dye, let it soak down into the curl, then when dry, sand it back. Sanding will remove the dye from the flat grain portion only, leaving behind an enhanced curl. Lots of information on this subject and appears you have read about what you want to achieve. If your thinking shellac, give it a try.

Test, test,test before you take it to your project.

-Ace-

[gsxturbo11]

What about the walnut in this project? Should I just put a top coat over that area? So if I have a curly inlay in the walnut would I tape off the walnut area and then do the finishing on the maple after I'm done with that take off the tape and topcoat the whole thing?

[AceHoleInOne]

Now you need to turn your attention to the walnut. How do you like your walnut? Look around and try to figure out what you like? Will it look good against the Maple? Yes to tape off makes sense, then a topcoat over the entire piece or just a toned shellac, figure out your colors/tones, as well as options.

You need to test on scraps...its your eye. Take your time and figure out your finishing schedule, keep notes of the steps you take. I wish I could say just smear oil over the whole thing and call it done. But that may not be what you like?

-Ace-

[Lawrence Brown]

The one thing we all agree on is definitely test on some scrap pieces. I always keep around several scraps that I take through the entire sanding process along with the good pieces just so I can try the finishes on them first. That way I get consistent results.

For simplicity's sake, I'd figure out what I wanted to do with the maple first and then just do the same thing to a piece of the walnut scrap and see how they look next to each other. since the walnut is darker, I'd guess that the dyes you use on the maple wouldn't affect it as much. At least that would be my hope. You may still end up having to mask the walnut or do something else, but at least if you start with the simplest test you might be able to save yourself some work.