Hanging tool cabinet

[TerryMcK]

OP can you post what smoother you are actually using? That sort of tearout is usually all the reasons other people have posted and also if the throat gap is too wide. If you show us the smoother we can narrow down the problem a bit more as we are speculating at the moment.

[Rick N]

Thanks guys, it is an old Stanley smoother. My other planes are lie Nielsen but this was my grandfathers plane and I like the idea of using it. I have not had this problem before. Blade has a micro bevel at 30 degrees. I replaced the original with the Veritas blade and chip breaker made for that blade. The mouth is very tight and I am getting wispy shavings and then the plane just digs in.

Not sure if it matters but this walnut is very low grade and as I cut it, the tension is closing the gap of the saw kerfs. Also as I was analyzing a piece for grain direction I noticed that I am using the pith. If I would have noticed that it would be a goner.

[TerryMcK]

The closeup photos of the base show a lot Rick thanks. The base looks a little hollow around the throat area - might just be the camera angle. It may just need a bit more work to flatten. This too will affect the support of fibers forward of the blade.

What sort of shavings are you getting on other woods (like 1" wide oak for instance) - continuous waspy, 1 thou thick etc? Any tear out on other woods?

It might not have enough gap too as the Veritas blade is slightly thicker than the standard Stanley blade. Try adjusting the frog slightly (take it towards the tote) so it has a hair more gap.

[Eric.]

Also the blade looks slightly skewed which means you're taking a much bigger bite on one side than the other.  The blade should be perfectly straight and protruding and equal amount across the entire mouth.

[PWRFULZ3R0]

Also the blade looks slightly skewed which means you're taking a much bigger bite on one side than the other.  The blade should be perfectly straight and protruding and equal amount across the entire mouth.

Is it sitting skewed in the plane or was it honed skewed? If a veritas mk.2 honing jig was used, I'm going with the latter. I don't disagree that it would take a heavier cut if skewed in the plane. But don't go trying to fix it if it's honed skewed, never caused me any problems AND you would be chasing your tail with the mk.2

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[Eric.]

20 minutes ago, PWRFULZ3R0 said:

Is it sitting skewed in the plane or was it honed skewed? If a veritas mk.2 honing jig was used, I'm going with the latter. I don't disagree that it would take a heavier cut if skewed in the plane. But don't go trying to fix it if it's honed skewed, never caused me any problems AND you would be chasing your tail with the mk.2

If your MKII is honing skew into your blade, there's something wrong with your MKII.  The bevel should be consistent all the way across the blade.

[estesbubba]

32 minutes ago, Eric. said:

If your MKII is honing skew into your blade, there's something wrong with your MKII.  The bevel should be consistent all the way across the blade.

I would think so too but this is from the MKII manual.

Note: The section between the primary bevel and
the micro-bevel can often be skewed in relation
to the edge; however, this is not a concern. While
the geometry of the guide is sensitive to even the
smallest infl uences, the geometry at the edge of
the blade is not nearly as sensitive. The guide will
create a square edge, even if the section between
primary and micro-bevel appears to be skewed.

[PWRFULZ3R0]

I would think so too but this is from the MKII manual.

Note: The section between the primary bevel and

the micro-bevel can often be skewed in relation

to the edge; however, this is not a concern. While

the geometry of the guide is sensitive to even the

smallest infl uences, the geometry at the edge of

the blade is not nearly as sensitive. The guide will

create a square edge, even if the section between

primary and micro-bevel appears to be skewed.

It's even in the manual?!? That's awesome. I just remember the guys from either fine woodworking or woodtalk podcast discussing this "problem" with the mk.2 at length.

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[Rick N]

Thanks again all. Yes I am using mk2 and it does skew the blade. But my shavings are pararrel I tried some scraps today and no tear out whatsoever on the sap wood of walnut. Very thin shavings that fade away at the edges just as they should. I glued up the main cabinet tonight and I am working on the sides this weekend so I can test it some more.