Product for spraying kitchen cabinets


luthierdan

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I've been looking for the same thing and at first I was inclined to go with an oil base paint product, but after some research I'm leaning towards the ProClassic® Interior Acrylic Latex by Sherwin Williams. Haven't tried it yet, but my plan is to spray my new kitchen cabinet doors.

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I should have specified that I am looking for a clear, semi-gloss finish for stained cabinets.

I could spray lacquer but was looking for something more durable.

luthierdan

Not sure if you can get it in CA, but Minwax Water Based Oil Modified Polyurethane works pretty darn good. I came across it at lowes, so it's easy to find most places. I dilute it 10%, and spray it through a 1.4 HVLP. It levels great, drys rock hard - No gumminess like a lot of the WB laquers, and it even has an amber tint to it. It's about $40 a gallon too.

I've used it on a few bath cabinet jobs, and it hasn't disappointed me.

Hope this helps!

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Not sure if you can get it in CA, but Minwax Water Based Oil Modified Polyurethane works pretty darn good. I came across it at lowes, so it's easy to find most places. I dilute it 10%, and spray it through a 1.4 HVLP. It levels great, drys rock hard - No gumminess like a lot of the WB laquers, and it even has an amber tint to it. It's about $40 a gallon too.

I've used it on a few bath cabinet jobs, and it hasn't disappointed me.

Hope this helps!

No gumminess like a lot of the WB laquers

Interesting Greg, could you explain a little more about the gumminess you have experienced?

-Ace-

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No gumminess like a lot of the WB laquers

Interesting Greg, could you explain a little more about the gumminess you have experienced?

-Ace-

Ahhh... I knew that would get some interest...

Actually, Gumminess is from operator error, not from the product. Waterbased laquers, in my experience, need to go on in thin coats to allow for quick drying and curing of the product. However, I tend to apply them a little heavy, especially when spraying horizontal surfaces, in an effort to speed up my build time. The problem is, the WB laquers seem to dry/cure much slower when applied heavy. It's almost a geometric progression for the retarded cure time. Example, if a standard coat of WB Laq takes 2 hours to dry to a powder sanded coat, then a double thick layer will take 8 hours, rather than 4 (2 coats times 2 hours each). Again, this is just my experience, and is rooted in my impatience, and not in the product.

For what it's worth, most of the WB laquers out there do a great job on cabinets - I particularly like the Hood Resisthane - Only draw back is it's available only from the manufacturer.

-gp

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Ahhh... I knew that would get some interest...

Actually, Gumminess is from operator error, not from the product. Waterbased laquers, in my experience, need to go on in thin coats to allow for quick drying and curing of the product. However, I tend to apply them a little heavy, especially when spraying horizontal surfaces, in an effort to speed up my build time. The problem is, the WB laquers seem to dry/cure much slower when applied heavy. It's almost a geometric progression for the retarded cure time. Example, if a standard coat of WB Laq takes 2 hours to dry to a powder sanded coat, then a double thick layer will take 8 hours, rather than 4 (2 coats times 2 hours each). Again, this is just my experience, and is rooted in my impatience, and not in the product.

For what it's worth, most of the WB laquers out there do a great job on cabinets - I particularly like the Hood Resisthane - Only draw back is it's available only from the manufacturer.

-gp

Lot of factors go into dry time. Finishes start curing immediately after they dry. Depending on what kind of product it is, who made it, type of environment it’s drying in, # of coats, thickness of coats, could be 7 to 30 days before full cure. Also thinning water-based with water, you already guessed it, slows the dry.

Highland Woodworking, I believe carry the Resisthane?

-Ace-

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  • 2 weeks later...

I used Sherwin Williams system. I got the "recipe" from the finisher of a custom kitchen cabinetry shop. Mine was on hard maple so here it is:

Spray Light coat of Bulls Eye Shellac Sanding Sealer

Spray Stain coat of Cinnamon Wiping Stain, let sit 5-10 min and wipe

Spray Shellac sanding sealer

Spray light coat of Cinnamon Wiping Stain again, do not wipe this acts like a glaze

Spray Shellac sanding sealer

Spray 0.5% by volume brown dye/Lacquer thinner solution

Spray Shellac sanding sealer

Spray Sherwin Williams Vinyl Sealer

Spray Sherwin William Cab-Acrylic Lacquer

lightly sand, and spray 5 more coats of the Cab-Acrylic Lacquer lightly sanding to remove nibs between coats.

Tha sheen I used was dull rubbed effect.

Kitchen Photos

Tim

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I like M.L. Campbell's products. Their Magna Max lacquer is really nice, more durable than regular pre cat. And if you want a little more protection they have conversion varnish, which I believe is called Krystal. Not sure if you can get it in your area, but very nice professional finishes.

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