sbarton22 Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 So, I'm trying to form complex curves by using a spoke shave, a block plane and a #4 plane. I seem to get a lot of chatter on one side of the board with my spoke shave and tearout on the other with my planes. What is actually causing that chatter? am I planing/shaving in the wrong direction? I found that I actually have very consistent shavings if I stroked cross grain, especially with the #4. I was able to control the shape very quickly and evenly. (the shape is something similar to a baguette) Now, 2 things that you must know....1), this is about the 3rd time I have ever touched a plane. 2) these planes are all I have and can really purchase for the time being (saving for a lathe). What does it sound like I am doing wrong? (or right?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 The first thing I'd look at is your shaves edge, is it sharp? Try taking a lighter cut. Try skewing your shave. Cut downhill, from the top to the bottom of a curve. Make sure that the blade is seated and supported by the bed, tighten it down securely. Plane tearout can be controlled by having a sharp iron, closing up the mouth, seating the leading edge of the chipbreaker close to the edge of the iron, not skewing the plane, and planing with the grain. If that fails, add a back bevel to the iron to increase the cutting angle. Photos would help, if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Lots of lessons learned tonight. Gave it my first real attempt at sharpening my various planes. Do I need to hollow grind them like I might for a gouge? I didn't start with that, as I didn't want to mess them up. I got much better results regardless. I also busted out the card scraper for the first time and I liked those results as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 In my opinion, and I'm gonna get grief for this, grinders are for High Speed Steel lathe tools. "Grind" a primary bevel with a honing guide (cheapo Eclipse style is fine) on sandpaper on a flat surface. PSA backed 220 works well. Clean off your guide to remove loose grit, or buy a second guide and hone a micro bevel on a 1000/8000 grit stone (when my King stones wear out I'm switching to Norton). Flatten the stone on the same paper on the same surface. See here. Build this. This is the what we teach people at LN Tool Events. It's easy to be successful at sharpening following this method, and the best bang for your buck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Wow, this is great! Thanks a ton! When we speak of stones, I know an Arkansas stone requires oil and Japanese stones require water. Does it really matter what kind of stones I am using? I have a 2 grit Japanese stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Does it really matter what kind of stones I am using? Nope, as long as they're flat and they cut your steel. Generally waterstones sharpen faster, oilstones stay flatter longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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