Planning my dovetail workflow. Tools for making a small rabbet.

[Sergio Escudero]

I am planning for the future, for when I have my workbench finished and start making boxes and similar things with dovetails. I've seen that some people make a slight rabbet to create a shoulder that helps with alignment. I have concluded that there are several ways to achieve this, each with its pros and cons, but I would like to know your opinion.

Currently, I have a Record 778. Technically it works, but it might be too cumbersome for the task, and it doesn't have a skewed blade. Other options I am considering are a Juuma rabbet block plane (€84), a Luban 92 or 93 (€120 / +€180 respectively), the Veritas Skew Block Plane (€255), or a vintage skewed wooden shoulder plane.

On one hand, I see that the Veritas would be the best option since it has a skewed blade and a fence, but it is extremely expensive. The Juuma is the cheapest, but I would need to use a block clamped to the wood to do the job, just like with a shoulder plane. On the other hand, I don't know if a shoulder plane would be better or if it would be a better purchase for future projects. The Luban 92 is 20mm wide and the 93 is 25mm, which would force me to work with boards at least 1mm thinner than the plane's width.

So, this is the dilemma. I don't think I can afford the Veritas anyway, although I'd like to. How do you guys see it?

PS: There will be an incised line from the marking gauge that will have already severed the wood fibers before making the rebate.

[wtnhighlander]

You might consider Rob Cosman's 'masking tape ledge' as an option (at least for now), since it only requires a cutting gauge to implement.

Jump to minute 7:00 in this video to see it demonstrated.

 

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

I do this on half blind dovetails, but usually don't bother on through dovetails. 

What I've found is that it's very tough, even with a rabbeting block plane, to hit your scribe line exactly perfectly without blowing past it. 

So i use a chisel to create a knife wall at the scribe line. This gives me a good 1/8" buffer area for the edge of the plane and i don't need to be nearly as exact with it. 

Also, as @wtnhighlander pointed out, using masking tape is a good alternative too. 

 

This picture isn't actually a dovetail, but it'll work to illustrate the point. I cut the knifewall on the rabbet side (right side) of the scribe line, and then a block plane to remove the material between the knifewall and the end of the piece.

 

[Sergio Escudero]

On 3/1/2026 at 3:51 PM, wtnhighlander said:

You might consider Rob Cosman's 'masking tape ledge' as an option (at least for now), since it only requires a cutting gauge to implement.

Yes, I knew the tape trick, it's smart. I really like Rob's videos, but I still prefer creating a subtle rabbet; I think it will be faster for me.
 

On 3/1/2026 at 4:46 PM, Ron Swanson Jr. said:

What I've found is that it's very tough, even with a rabbeting block plane, to hit your scribe line exactly perfectly without blowing past it. 

It occurs to me that with a plane with fence, you could first create the rabbet using the board to set the fence distance, just like you would with the marking gauge? That way you'd have a perfect rabbet, and then if needed, you can also perfectly configure the marking gauge using the same board. The other day I saw a video of someone using, I think, the Veritas plane I mentioned earlier, like that, since it has a sharp wheel like most marking gauges and fences. I don't know if what I'm suggesting is actually a better method.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

On 3/3/2026 at 7:00 AM, Sergio Escudero said:

Yes, I knew the tape trick, it's smart. I really like Rob's videos, but I still prefer creating a subtle rabbet; I think it will be faster for me.
 

It occurs to me that with a plane with fence, you could first create the rabbet using the board to set the fence distance, just like you would with the marking gauge? That way you'd have a perfect rabbet, and then if needed, you can also perfectly configure the marking gauge using the same board. The other day I saw a video of someone using, I think, the Veritas plane I mentioned earlier, like that, since it has a sharp wheel like most marking gauges and fences. I don't know if what I'm suggesting is actually a better method.

If it was dialed in to the thickness of the pin board, then that could work, sure. 

Still though, you'd be using an inaccurate tool (plane) to make some critical cuts in place of highly accurate tools (marking gauge, chisel). 

 

That said, I've never tried it so i shouldn't poo poo it too much until i do. But it's pretty frustrating when you slip with the plane and blow past your scribe line. 

 

[Immortan D]

I have the LN skew block plane but I don't use it on through dovetails.

You don't need to wait for your workbench to be finished to start making boxes with dovetails. You can put together a very basic moxon vise in no time and start practicing in your free time.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

It's probably worth mentioning that you don't technically NEED any plane to create this rabbet. You can saw it, or saw down from the baseline and use a wide chisel to come in from the end grain.