sbarton22 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Quick question... I bought a piece of olive wood on sale at Woodcraft. I figured I'd chop it down and make some pen blanks at about $1.25 per blank vs the $5-6 I normally find them. The wood was covered in wax. So, I start slicing away, and the wood was wet. And by "wet", I mean it felt like it had been soaking for ages. So, obviously I have some nice green olive wood. How long should a fella let those things air dry? Is the amount of movement and shrinkage negligible on such a small piece that it doesn't matter? I have not come across this yet, so I don't have clue what to do. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Might be a good excuse to buy a moisture meter. FWI olive is a little toxic so use your dust mask. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 What should the moisture level be? Good advice on the dusk mask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 6% or close to it for furniture so Id say close to the same. May be a little more room to fudge with a pen blank. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 I am tempted to think the moisture won't be a problem. Once you have turned the pen it is so thin that it will shed moisture really really fast. Additionally, it won't have much strength when it moves. Finally, the interior brass tube will keep it from moving. I guess if you are making a much fatter style pen but even then the wall thickness can't be more than 1/4". If you are really concerned, start turning a pen until close to the bushings then leave it for a day to equalize and come back to it and "twice turn" it like we do with bowls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 also you can use a microwave to dry pen blanks in 2 minute increments till it seems dry enough. as small as it is i wouldnt think it would stay wet long either just sitting in the shop for a little bit. also Shannon is right it will shed moisture pretty quickly while its turned. ps if it has the brass tube don't try the microwave. that statement was for insurance purposes lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Dang, such a seemingly simple question gave me a ton of insight on other aspects of turning that I haven't even thought about. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 <----- agrees with RenaissanceWW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvoigt Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 <---- disagrees with RenaissanceWW. While the wood is thin and you will shed most of the wood and moister, you have glued the bass tube to the wet wood. The wood will dry either on the lathe from cutting and sanding or shortly after and it will then shrink and there is a chance that you will have find a crack in the pen at the ends. Maybe not for a month, maybe not ever... but you run the risk. When I first started pen turning I had no issues with cracking until I turned a bunch of bloodwood pens and every single one cracked, but none of the other pens that made in that time frame. I would advise to remove all the wax and let them dry, microwave if the wife will let you, soak them in DNA (I've never tried this), or let them air dry for a few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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