New tablesaw blade not flat & unbalanced?!?!?


yonygg

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OK, so I started working on utilizing my tablesaw and got to the part of installing a new-from-the-box blade on it.

I did it while the motor belt was still off so after installing it I gave it a little spin and I saw that it's making a tiny 8 shape, so I decided to test it more scientifically and clamped a piece of scrap to the table top and here is the result:

Is it possible that the new blade is not flat? (I also checked it for heeling and I found it to be parallel to the miter gage slot)

What can I further do?

NOTE: towards the end of the video I released the scrap piece and the blade started spinning to the other direction until it came to balance. Is it possible that it's not balance on top of all?

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There's likely an issue with either the saw's arbor or arbor flange. Is this the first time you used the saw?

Joe

No, The saw is around 28 to 30 years old and has been through slight use through the years but was never tuned correctly at the first place, and maintenance was something this saw had never experienced..

How can I isolate the problem?

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No, The saw is around 28 to 30 years old and has been through slight use through the years but was never tuned correctly at the first place, and maintenance was something this saw had never experienced..

How can I isolate the problem?

I would recommend contacting the manufacturer's technical support. They can provide more details on likely causes and scope of repair. Good luck!

Joe

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This may be silly, and likely is.

My dado stack's arbor hole is really tight to the arbor and almost always, I can't get the first blade all the way back and flat against the arbor flange. It gets caught up on thread edges. Now, I check that and blah blah blah; never run it cockeyed.

When my blade is on cockeyed, it does what your blade does. Okay the thing where it settles to an unbalanced place is not so pronounced, though.

Is there a chance the blade isn't up against the flange correctly? Is there some junk on the flange so it feels fully seated, but is cockeyed?

Great video, by the way. Certainly replaced a 1,000 word post!

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Paul - A little very fine sandpaper might help your dado fit better. Mine was the same way...just go easy.

Excellent idea, KS. I'll give that a go tomorrow. Seems like such a simple idea; sooo elusive.

BTW, I will say the Dadonator came in a crappy cardboard box that isn't quite large enough and gets chewed by the blades every time I remove them. Time to fix that, too, from the scrap bin.

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This may be silly, and likely is.

My dado stack's arbor hole is really tight to the arbor and almost always, I can't get the first blade all the way back and flat against the arbor flange. It gets caught up on thread edges. Now, I check that and blah blah blah; never run it cockeyed.

When my blade is on cockeyed, it does what your blade does. Okay the thing where it settles to an unbalanced place is not so pronounced, though.

Is there a chance the blade isn't up against the flange correctly? Is there some junk on the flange so it feels fully seated, but is cockeyed?

Great video, by the way. Certainly replaced a 1,000 word post!

Hey Paul,

I inspected that issue, and unfortunately, the blade is sitting flat and nicely fit with the arbor flange so that isn't the case. there was no debris or anything else on the flange that could have prevented a full tight contact between the blade and the flange.

BTW - how hard should I tighten that arbor nut?

Rutabagared -

I doubt that after so many years there still someone that could actually give me tech support for that piece of machine. I have a feeling that trying that will end up as a waste of time. I was surprised to see though, that they still sell some of the spare parts for it.

I had posted about it on the OWWM forum (Old Wood Working Machines). There is a total of 3 videos of the problem in my post there. you can check it out if you like.

Any other ideas on it guys?

P.S.

I took the videos with my new DSLR camera (a Canon Rebel T2i - I'm very pleased with it so far)

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If you have a dial indicator and a magnetic base, attach the base to the underside of the top. Remove the nut and washers from the arbor and put the dial indicator to the shoulder of the arbor, the ball end of the indicator should be riding the arbor where the wash rests against the arbor. Set the dial indicator to zero and slowly turn the pulley on the other end of the arbor shaft. See if there is any runout as you rotate the arbor. If that is an older Craftsman they had a little problem with the arbor shaft bearings and you may need to replace them. Use or no use, idle time seemed to be their enemy.

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