walnut stain problem


coolaid

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Sand it back, it looks like glue spots, or is definitely some surface contamination. I'd sand the entire surface back and seal coat with dewaxed shellac because in the pictures the whole thing looks splotched. If that is just in the pictures and not in reality, you could try wet sanding the stained area with stain and 220 wet dry paper. That is the beauty and fustration of finishing you can fix about anything but it takes a lot of rework.

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Hi,

Sorry, I've forgot to write down the details. I have sand it all at 80,120 and 180. Then I raise the grain and sand it at 320. Part of the blotching come from the fact that the surface is still wet. But this morning I went to see the table and I still have some blotch on it.

I never used dewaxed shellac as a base coat. Do I sand it all back to 80,120 and 180 again and then apply the shellac? Then, do I sand it all to 180?

The walnut stain come in kind of power that you mix in water. As for the sapwood or heartwood, I really don't know. What would do a difference of wood?

thank you all for your answers,

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From what I'm hearing you used a water-based dye. After raising the grain did you wait very long for the wood to dry or just dry enough to sand, then you applied the dye? Looks to me that water had somehow pushed back to the surface not allowing the dye to take. Could of been that board was more porous than the others.

To rule out surface contamination...can you get an artist brush and load the brush with dye and try to "re-dye" just one of the water spots?

If that works and the dye takes, sand everything down real good. Then clean your wood with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water, let it dry good, over night, a day or two even better. Then re-dye.

-Ace-

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To add more onto what Ace says the top looks to be soft maple which will blotch in the best of conditions. For the shellac I dont get carried away especially using a dye for color. just get Bullseye sealcoat and mix 50/50 with denatured alcahol. brush, wipe or spray on let dry and sand very lightly lightly is the key to not sand through the shellac sealer coat apply dye on top of that and topcoat.

Again all this after following Aces prep. Please post pictures to show us how it went.

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Guess I need some clarity :) I would use shellac or some other sealer if surface contamination was an issue. The wood is Tiger Maple. Heartwood stains different than sapwood, that's a given.

Using curly wood, you want to highlight those areas, pop the curl....yes/no? If we jump in and seal the wood we can limit the amount of curl pop. Me personally, I like the contrast.

-Ace-

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From what I'm hearing you used a water-based dye. After raising the grain did you wait very long for the wood to dry or just dry enough to sand, then you applied the dye? Looks to me that water had somehow pushed back to the surface not allowing the dye to take. Could of been that board was more porous than the others.

To rule out surface contamination...can you get an artist brush and load the brush with dye and try to "re-dye" just one of the water spots?

If that works and the dye takes, sand everything down real good. Then clean your wood with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water, let it dry good, over night, a day or two even better. Then re-dye.

-Ace-

Hello Ace,

On the picture, I had applied a second coat of walnut stain. So I don't think that if I try to add some more stain with an artistic brush it will do any good. However, I will try it anyway to rule this out.

I did waited overnight after the grain raising before applying the finish.

As for the curly maple, it was hidden in the bundle of what I had in hand. I do not necessary want to highlight it. (please don't be mad at me! :))

So tonight, I'll try to add finish on the spots. if it don't work, I will sand it all to the wood and clean it with 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.

I'll let you know how this goes.

thank you for your support,

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Hello Ace,

On the picture, I had applied a second coat of walnut stain. So I don't think that if I try to add some more stain with an artistic brush it will do any good. However, I will try it anyway to rule this out.

I did waited overnight after the grain raising before applying the finish.

As for the curly maple, it was hidden in the bundle of what I had in hand. I do not necessary want to highlight it. (please don't be mad at me! :))

So tonight, I'll try to add finish on the spots. if it don't work, I will sand it all to the wood and clean it with 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.

I'll let you know how this goes.

thank you for your support,

After sanding, and you want an even color as possible.You probably should seal the wood down with shellac or a good water-based finish (that's what I like mixed 50/50 with water or 60/40, you have to play to get the correct seal). So you may want to get some test boards going, bring those up to the point you are now. Do everything you have done to the project to the test boards. Don't practice on your project.

-Ace-

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After sanding, and you want an even color as possible.You probably should seal the wood down with shellac or a good water-based finish (that's what I like mixed 50/50 with water or 60/40, you have to play to get the correct seal). So you may want to get some test boards going, bring those up to the point you are now. Do everything you have done to the project to the test boards. Don't practice on your project.

-Ace-

Thanks for the tips. I will try to do this tonight.

coolaid

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Hello everyone,

before sanding the table, I decided to rub it with water to remove as much as I could of left stain. by doing so, I manage to expand the stain over the unstained part and stained it.

I haven't stopped my idea on the finish over the table. This table will go in the laundry room over the washer and the dryer. Do you have anything to suggest. There's might be some damped cloth that could get on this.

Thank you,

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  • 3 weeks later...

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