Juicegoose Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 How many coats of bullseye sanding sealer do you guys typically put down under a painted project? I'm doing an antique finish on a buffett style piece with a GF milkpaint and glaze effect. I was thinking one coat of the sealer should be plenty but wasn't sure. Also for those that have done this style of finish how many coats of clearcoat did you put in between the milkpaint and the glaze effect. I had planned on the following process. all coats are sprayed(except glaze) 1-2 coats sanding sealer(sanding with 220 between coat) 2-3 coats GF milkpaint(sanind wih 220 between coats) 2 coats gf High performance poly to seal the paint glaze effect 2-4 coats gf high perf poly. I will have stereo equipment and tv sliding on the finished piece so the more durable the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 GF's Milk Paint is self-sealing and primer isn't necessary. However, primer is a good idea on woods with knots or that are sappy and prone to bleeding and woods that require tannin blocking, like the Oak's. Is this a refinish or are you painting over new wood? I would suggest only one good wet-coat of high performance over the Milk Paint. The goal here is to seal, so the Milk Paint won't bleed through while glazing. Yep about 2 to 3 coat's of Satin High Performance as a topcoat is good. If ya want a harder finish, you can always add their Cross-Linker product to the High Performance. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juicegoose Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Ace this is indeed new wood. Mainly poplar framing and birch ply. Like you stated the sanding sealer has been only for evening out any little imperfections in the wood from sanding(stuff thats hard to see. Also regarding the "heavy coat" of the sealer. With the case being assembled and in the vertical position I was wanting to keep any possible drips to a minimum. Typically I'll apply a light coat, wait an hour then reapply to build up the finish. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Just one coat. I use Zinnser "sealcoat" rather than "sanding sealer". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 As to how many coats of sanding sealer...kinda like the underwear we will all be wearing when we get old, DEPENDS . Put a coat on, when dry, lightly sand with 320. See what ya got. If you don't see things covered-up or filled in. Hit it again, may take 2 coats or 3 coats. DEPENDS how heavy you can apply it. 2 heavy coats or 3 thinner coats... -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanLincoln Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 When applying a finish, do not apply paint or stain to weather strip, vinyl, plastic, metal or any other non-wood parts. Solvents in paints, stains and varnishes will cause plastic or vinyl parts, in particular, to become brittle and require replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Under paint, I prefer a suitable sandable primer instead of clear sanding sealers. Extra pigment can't hurt when creating a solid color... As previously mentioned, you may not need a primer under GF "Milk Paint". At worst, you may need an extra coat of paint. If you want a shellac based primer, there's BIN pigmented shellac. Otherwise, I'll use whatever is recommended for the colored product. I'd also stick to one coat when using clears as a barrier or to seal previous layers. Too thick of a final finish can cause problems over time. This is where I often use Zinnser Seal coat, between layers of dyes, stains, glazes, etc... I'm not familiar with the GF poly, but many better finishes state a maximum dry film thickness on the manufacturer's data sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Good info Barry, if you don't have the dry film thickness instrument. Typically, a "wet film" thickness is spoken. Or "how many coats." You can buy an inexpensive wet film gauge for a couple bucks. An example of a good wet coat is typically 2 to 4 mils on horizontal surface or 1 to 2 mils vertical surface. Not always the case, but in general is a good rule of thumb. The "seat of the pants" indicator of a good wet-coat on a horizontal surface using a water based clear, the finish will just start to look blueish in color. When you see it coming up "blue" stop. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 My finish dealer gave me the "wet mil guage" Ace mentions, free for the asking... He's a Pratt and Lambert dealer that sells ML Campbell products. It never hurts to ask! The gauge is extremely helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Yep...free is better...and while were talking free, don't forget to ask for stir sticks and a handful of medium mesh finish strainers, all free! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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