mlehikoinen Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 So, I've recently done 1 refinish where the customer asked me to paint something white. It was a basic dresser and it turned out okay, but the paint was a pain in the -ahem-! It was too thick even after thinning and reaching a suitable viscocity where it was still causing some spattering. Of course, it was a water based latex. Is oil based latex paint thinner out of the can? Should I actually be using a different type of paint altogether? Reason I'm asking is that I have another request to white paint a dresser. This time it's a queen Anne style dresser which appears to be in great condition (shrug). Thoughts? I have an Earlex 5500 and I was using the 2.0 mm nozzle as suggested by earlex. I also have the 1.5 mm nozzle which I generally use for my water based poly or shellac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I like to tint water based clear finish. I've mixed up to 20% latex paint into ML Cambell Ultrastar. This gives me a non-blocking, extremely durable, very easy to spray coating. Ultrastar sprays right out of the can, I don't thin it. I normally choose Pratt & Lambert's top of the line paint. I select the sheen of clear coat based on my final expectation. The sheen of the latex I'm adding doesn't seem to matter. I would test this with products easily available to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I prefer semigloss white lacquer or conversion varnish. This is the white lacquer. Ignore the untrimmed door its fresh out of the press. It's hard to beat the simplicity of lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Don, do you use HVLP? If so, what brand? I'm thinking of getting a Fuji. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Don, do you use HVLP? If so, what brand? I'm thinking of getting a Fuji. (null) I have an Apollo and a Kremlin air assist. I dont use the air assist anymore. I shut down my warehouse operation due to heath problems. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks Don. Air assist is a compressor LVLP, right? I don't want to mess with compressed air. It's extremely energy inn efficient. I'll see if I can find some info comparing Fuji and Apollo for both function and price. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks Don. Air assist is a compressor LVLP, right? I don't want to mess with compressed air. It's extremely energy inn efficient. I'll see if I can find some info comparing Fuji and Apollo for both function and price. (null) No the Kremlin is a pump, air and heating system combined. Its more of a production sprayer not really a home shop system. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I like to tint water based clear finish. I've mixed up to 20% latex paint into ML Cambell Ultrastar. This gives me a non-blocking, extremely durable, very easy to spray coating. Ultrastar sprays right out of the can, I don't thin it. I normally choose Pratt & Lambert's top of the line paint. I select the sheen of clear coat based on my final expectation. The sheen of the latex I'm adding doesn't seem to matter. I would test this with products easily available to you. Id be intrested in hearing more. Generally I just use white lacquer and have it tinted if I need an odd color but this means a 2hr drive to Sherewin william professional. Sometimes I'll break down and pay the crazy premium of homestead.com to get a tinted general polyacrylic. Sure would be nice to find a cheaper option, Ive got a tan cabinet job comming up. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Another option.....General Finishes has a product called Enduro Pigmented Poly. Its water-based and formulated to spray. http://www.generalfi...mented-topcoats Above is the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Id be intrested in hearing more. Generally I just use white lacquer and have it tinted if I need an odd color but this means a 2hr drive to Sherewin william professional. Sometimes I'll break down and pay the crazy premium of homestead.com to get a tinted general polyacrylic. Sure would be nice to find a cheaper option, Ive got a tan cabinet job comming up. Don There isn't much more to tell... I just mix the paint into the ready to spray finish. I start with 10%, and check the opacity. If you can't get the specific products I'm using, I'd spray a few test panels with what you can get, and abuse them. I have a coaster cut from my original 4 year old test panel that's been in daily use for 4 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 There isn't much more to tell... I just mix the paint into the ready to spray finish. I start with 10%, and check the opacity. If you can't get the specific products I'm using, I'd spray a few test panels with what you can get, and abuse them. I have a coaster cut from my original 4 year old test panel that's been in daily use for 4 years. Thanks ML Cambell is not available around here. I asked the Target rep this morning and of course he could neither agree or deny that it would hurt the finish. But was kind enough to let me know that SW has a tintable white CAB that can be used for any of the pastel colors. I need to find a new SW rep, mine has been sending me to Seattle for years when I could have been buying 10 minutes away. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phinnegan Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Another option.....General Finishes has a product called Enduro Pigmented Poly. Its water-based and formulated to spray. http://www.generalfi...mented-topcoats Above is the link. I haven't been able to find the stuff anywhere retail, where can one get products from their "professional" line?? - another thought is their "Milk Paint" line ... "Milk paint is the stocked version of our Professional Classic paint line. It can be applied directly from the can to your work piece with a synthetic or foam brush; or applied using an HVLP or conventional sprayer." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I haven't been able to find the stuff anywhere retail, where can one get products from their "professional" line?? I havent seen it anyplace on a shelf. There are lots of places online. General is really more of a niche hobby woodworker line. Your local rockler or woodcraft can order it in for you. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I haven't been able to find the stuff anywhere retail, where can one get products from their "professional" line?? - another thought is their "Milk Paint" line ... "Milk paint is the stocked version of our Professional Classic paint line. It can be applied directly from the can to your work piece with a synthetic or foam brush; or applied using an HVLP or conventional sprayer." Here is the link to the professional distributors for General Finishes http://www.generalfi...s.com/where-buy If your state doesn't have a distributor. Call General Finishes directly at 800-783-6050 and order that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeygobes Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 My choice for best furniture paints for hvlp are semigloss white lacquer and conversion varnish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 What is a conversion varnish? I to am interested in a good paint to be able to shoot out of an HVLP, all colors. I am new to HVLP but looking to expand my knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 What is a conversion varnish? I to am interested in a good paint to be able to shoot out of an HVLP, all colors. I am new to HVLP but looking to expand my knowledge. A conversion varnish is essentially a 2-part finish (1 part is the base and the other is referred to as either a converter, catalyst or hardener). The two components are mixed and depending on the method of application a thinner or reducer may be added to allow more open time for brushing and / or making it more suitable for spraying.. Most 'conversion varnishes' are poly based (but not always :-) Benefits are a harder finish which makes it more scratch resistant and depending on the product they may also be more chemical and moisture resistant. As far as types of paint for spraying, almost any paint can be sprayed providing an appropriate thinner is used to get it to a proper consistency. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRW Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I've been reading this site for a little while now. I'm really interested in more detail concering this topic. A year ago, I started a very large home renovation project that has a huge amount of doors, millwork and cabinetry. Through trial and error and MUCH frustration, one floor of the three has been completed. Not being completely happy with the results, I was searching online for more answers, and found this site. If anyone could elaborate further regarding the combination of paint with a water based clear finish, and applied with an HVLP, I would really appreciate it! I have a CapSpray 3 Stage turbine, with an American Turbine (non-bleeder) gun, and used a 1.6 mm needle. (Tried using the “fine finish” air cap, but liked the regular air cap that came with the needle better.) My best results so far are from using Insul-X STIX primer ($50/gallon) - 1 coat on old work, 2 coats on any new (replacement trim) - no thinning, but I did add 2 oz of XIM per gallon.) Then, light sanding of primer. Vacuum using a soft brush. Wipe down with a slightly damp microfiber cloth. Top coat of Muralo Satin (waterbourne) that was thinned w/ 2 oz of water and 2 oz XIM per gallon. Sprayed “3 tack “coats. The "look" is good, but I'm not excited about the durability... Very interested in the method described in this topic, and whether I could continue to use Muralo Satin paint in the same color. Also, I'm within 30 minutes of a Rockler Retail store. Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 I have an Apollo and a Kremlin air assist. I dont use the air assist anymore. I shut down my warehouse operation due to heath problems. Don Why not use the Kremlin for the 100 gal job. Save the money? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Why not use the Kremlin for the 100 gal job. Save the money? The theory was to save by buying a cheap airless. Bt the time I buy the mobile cart, bucket pick-up, power cord, hose set, water separator and all the fitting to convert the wall mount kremlin pump to a portable system im out more than just buying a cheap airless. Then I have to put it all back when the job is done, no sense in scavenging my shop for a one time job. On top of the fact that I would have to take the my little emglo air compress from the shop then have no way to run my pinner and stapler unless I lug it back and forth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katrina.g Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I like to use white lacquer for my HVLP projects. It's really hard to determine what will happen and how the wood furniture is going to adapt to the paint so I always test first with a similar wood or just a small portion of the furniture. I always start with the edges of the furniture. It's always safe to paint that way. If the finish is too dry, I reduce airflow by reducing air inlet pressure but if it's too wet, reduce fluid flow by turning fluid adjusting knob clockwise. Kat G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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