mwatkins Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 I'm to the point that I pretty much have everything buttoned up and will be assemblying my base this weekend. But as I worked through the leg vise installation I've run into a bit of an issue with the crank handle binding on the mounting flange. When I tighten the flange down I get the binding, but as soon as I back the bolts off to just finger tight the binding goes away (and no I'm not cranking them down...maybe 1/2-3/4 turn beyond finger tight). I've verfied that the clearance counterbore for the washer is deep enough that it's not causing the binding. I've also looked at the flange and haven't been able to find any bow to it. I'm kind of at a loss here. The vise works beautifully as long as I only have those bolts finger tight, anything more than that and the handle binds up. At this point all I can think of is to run the flange across my belt sander to remove a fraction of steel between it and the base of the crank. Anyone else have an issue with their leg vise or any other suggestions on what I should look at? Thanks, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMarshall Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 There was a similar problem reported in another thread, but for the tail vise. It sounds like you may have the same situation. If the holes for the flange bolts are just slightly crooked, it may be causing the flange to tweak a little when you tighten them down. Did you drill the holes on a drill press or freehand? Try tightening the bolts one at a time to see if you can tell which hole may be an issue. The other thing I'm thinking is that maybe the flange isn't centered perfectly and the screw is rubbing against the side of the hole in the chop just slightly. Loosening the bolts may allow it enough wiggle room to move away from the sidewall of the screw clearance hole. If it's this, you should be able to see it from the backside of the chop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatkins Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Aaron, thanks for the response. The flange holes were made at the drill press. I've tried the one bolt v.s. the other route as well without luck; both bolts have to be finger tight or less for it to be smooth sailing. My initial thoughts were clearance issues with the through hole as well but I have been able to rule that out by verifying there is clearance with a mechanics mirror. A clarification on the finger tight...I will tighten the bolts normally and then back them off maybe a 1/4 turn, at which point the binding stops. I have also noticed that with the flange loose there is noticible clearance between the base of the crank and the flange...but as soon as I tighten things up this clearance completely disappears...it's like tightening the flage is pushing the screw deeper into the hole which is then pulling the handle into the flange...if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allencrane Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Just a thought here...is the vise actually apart from the leg when you are testing it, or are you testing it with the vise installed in the leg? Just want to help rule out that there isn't an issue with the parallellism between the parallel guide and the threaded rod as it goes into the leg, since the tightening of the flange could have a slight effect on the angle of the threaded rod into the leg. Something else to consider...If you are testing this with the leg vise installed in the leg, you may also want to double check the parallellism of the mortise in the leg with the hole for the threaded rod in the leg. If either of these are off (either on the up/down parallel or side-to-side parallel), you may have an issue with binding since the threaded rod and parallel guide have to be parallel in 2 dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevmc Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 i would double check the counterbore for the washer and make sure its both deep enough and big enough. if I recall correctly the counterbore for me was a tight fit, not from the depth but from the diameter and when I relieved the edges a bit with a chisel it made all the difference in the world. I had a similar problem to you on the wagon vice and the difference between no problems and some problems is a very small amount of wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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