robjeffking Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 couple quick ?'s My Northwood 2hp dc has 2 4 inch inlets. My shop has a second floor storage area in half of the shop. Im thinking put the dc up there an elimate some elbows and having to go up Ill just have a straight run maintaining airflow. How does the 6" connect to the 4 inch inlet reduce down at the dc? Do I combine the two 4 inch inlets into one 6 inch trunk or keep both 4 inch inlets separate with two trunks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 I like the idea of eliminating as many bends as you can in an extraction duct to maintain airflow. It does seem like a hassle changing that last bit of the 6" ducting run to 4 " reducers. You may have to speak with Northwood to see if the DC can be converted so that the twin port inlet could be replaced with a 6 inch single port. From the photograph it looks like the cover-plate is held on with a load of screws and may be replaceable. They may already have a conversion kit that just replaces the plate/inlet port. Failing that maybe you could take it apart yourself, cut out a bigger hole if needed (I'm not sure what diameter the single connecting branch is) and replace with a single 6" plastic or metal coupling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robjeffking Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Its an older unit Im noteven sure if they are still in business. Ive seen many dc with this configuration Im sure any dc plate could be modified to fit the northwood dc. What if I just kept the 4's and used two 4 inch trunks with gates to keep the airflow up at all times. My other idea is to have a small exhaust fan so when the dc is on the fan comes on as well and sucks out any dust that may escape from the bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robjeffking Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 The y fitting on the dc pulls off to reveal 1 5 inch port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 I'd suspect all you need would be to reduce the 6 inch line to the 5 inch port. but I don't have a DC that big, so I can't state the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robjeffking Posted August 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 DC is setup looks and works great. lowes sells a 6 inch to 5 inch rubber union. I just used duct tape to build up the surface on the dc port and the bell housing on 4 inch schedule 20 is 5 inches where it flares out. It cost about 100.00 fr all the materials I used. I have not glued most of the pipe yet(duct taped) Im waiting to do final glue up after the system has been completed. I used stainless steel bailing wire to hold the tubes up until I make wooden support struts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 I used a similar rubber boot to connect my 6" line to my 6" port on my DC. I really like this idea as it isolates any dc vibration from the dc line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robjeffking Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 A quick update about static build up in the system. When my dc was running if you got near the flexiable 4 inch drops you could feel the static build up it was very unpleasant to be around. I used stainless steel wire inside the flex hose and where it joined the pvc and blast gates wrapped it around the outside of the pvc and grounded it to the fuse box. Worked out great no more static build up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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