Previous Guild Build Selection


rmtannerjr

Recommended Posts

Hey guys! My name is Richard. I'm from the central Mississippi/Alabama area, live in Tuscaloosa, AL. Just joined the Guild a couple of days ago. Those of you who were viewing the live session this evening about repairing plywood may remember me as woodfan6939 or something as Marc addressed my question. My chat kept closing so hopefully it was just due to this satellite internet.

Well same question goes here but with a little more detail just in case i'm not ready for the recommended Shaker Table Guild build.

My question was: What previous Guild build is a natural progression from the bookcase build going on now? Since I am comfortable with this project as I recently done almost the exact same thing with a master closet build involving several birch ply boxes with poplar face frames and center shelves, dados and rabbits throughout. But instead of stain, alas the wife wanted paint.

I really loved the chest of drawers Marc built. His version especially, and probably because of the curves of the legs and the custom handles, along with the fact that I could use a chest of drawers. Problem is I think much of the reason is because I like the pricey wood species and his finishing that I doubt I could match without lots of practice.

So, I am intrigued by the Shaker Table build because it looks to be not too intimidating and yet introduces me to a few techniques that I am not familiar with and really want (need) to learn. Those being Mortise and Tenon, and Tapered Legs. Plus even going mail order, the materials won't break the bank.

My questions are about each technique. Is it required I have a Mortise machine? Not a hand tool kind of guy yet and willing to purchase a machine if thats what it takes.

Also, I'm very comfortable with my table saw but have never cut any tapered legs. I know Rockler has their jig on sale now but does Marc help make a jig for this in the videos? If not I will probably pull the trigger on the Rockler product and go this route unless there may be other projects to consider first.

And one final question about wood species that may be better asked in the Shaker Table forum. Will Red Oak or White Oak make a decent Shaker Table? My family owns lots of land and we have probably 1000 bdft of each on the ground from some recent storms along with at least that much Long Leaf Pine. I'm having some milled and dried now and hope that it will be usable for these guild builds.

Thanks!

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum, Richard...

The Shaker Table is an easy and fast build. You'll have no problem with it. Your master closet build sounds similar to the bookcase so I'd go with something else; best way to learn.

For mortising, you can easily mark the mortise and use a power drill to hog out most of it. Drill press by preference, but nothing you can't do with a powered hand drill and guide (and chisels to clean the waste). There aren't that many on that build for it to be daunting.

Cutting tapered legs is easy, too. You can build your own one-off jig as I tend to do because "next time I'll make a good taper jig"; there have been many next times. If you want a nice shop project, build this nice taper jig from Charles Neil. It looks remarkably similar to the deluxe taper jig Rockler came out with 6-8 months later :) There are videos and plans there.

White Oak is nice for the medullary rays; Red Oak has them, too, but not as pronounced. If you are dying or staining the wood, you could likely use either. Your decision on the wood is for the final look; either will be plenty strong enough for that build.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul,

Thanks for the insight and I am not sure what I was thinking about with the mortise question since I've seen Marc and others use a Forstner bit or router and either round the tenon or like you said use a mortise chisel. I have a drill press and the bits. Just need the chisel and glad to know it won't be many joints at first.

Funny I just watched the Charles Neil jig setup and noticed the Rockler jig looked quite similar. Every time I watch one of those videos I have such a hard time with the video quality. Oh well, spoiled with HD now I guess.

I am looking forward to the lumber I am having milled, but wonder if it will be up to par with store bought hardwood. All I have is Lowes/ Home Depot though so I will be saving considerable money at only $0.35 a bdft rough cut kiln dried, whatever I can get him as long as it isn't hickory or pecan. Been searching all of my woods for a Black Walnut. No luck yet

Thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Richard, I just built the shaker table a few months ago and I agree with everything Paul-Marcel said. It's a great beginner project that uses a bunch of essential basic woodworking skills. White oak would be a great choice for this table, but I'd take the time to pick through the stack and find the boards with the heaviest ray flecks. Flat sawn oak can be a little boring, IMO, of course.

No need to spend money on a commercial tapering jig. You can make your own in about ten minutes out of scrap ply and a couple toggle clamps. Just line up the taper marks on your legs with corresponding marks on your jig, and run it against your TS fence.

dscn0751s.jpg

I used the router table to make my mortises, but the forstner bit and chisel method is easy enough, too. The shaker table is good for learning half-blind dovetails, too, since there are only two small sets needed for the drawer, or you could of course use a more basic joinery there.

dscn0796oq.jpg

Have fun with it! It's an easy and relatively stress-free project.

dscn0785z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eric,

Your table looks extremely nice and I think was one of the ones that really stood out on the gallery.

I just ordered a few toggle clamps after looking at your jig, it looks simple enough and will save me $50.

I have a router or two, well four actually (stupid Porter-Cable and their free sander and dovetail jig deals)

About that dovetail and all dovetails for that matter. I really don't plan on getting into many dovetails at one time. I was considering selling one of these routers (PC 690 I think) and the dovetail jig (only the half blind template) in favor of money toward a band saw or jointer. I still have a bosch 2.25 HP and trim router as well as the PC 7518 for my future router table.

My question is, is cutting them by hand much more difficult or a waste of much time if I'm only doing a few drawers?

On a side note about the white oak, I just cut a nice 14-16" log roughly 25ft long that I will be having cut up soon. Sounds like to get that ray fleck that I was actually unfamiliar with until now, I will need to have almost perfect quarter sawn lumber. I didn't request it before because my logs weren't very wide but will this time.

Thanks,

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About that dovetail and all dovetails for that matter. I really don't plan on getting into many dovetails at one time. I was considering selling one of these routers (PC 690 I think) and the dovetail jig (only the half blind template) in favor of money toward a band saw or jointer. I still have a bosch 2.25 HP and trim router as well as the PC 7518 for my future router table.

My question is, is cutting them by hand much more difficult or a waste of much time if I'm only doing a few drawers?

For one drawer like that, you can cut it and be working on a bee...verage before you'd get the jig setup and dialed in. Even for a few drawers I think the advantage is still on the hand-cut side. Sure you need to practice first. They'll look terrible at first, you'll invent new vocabulary, but the sawing and chiseling skills are useful everywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome, Woodcraft sent a buy an item get another 50% off out today at my Birmingham, AL store so got a Veritas MK II for sharpening my el cheapo stanley chisels and decided to try the Veritas 20T fine dovetail saw. Seems to have favorable reviews for a budget saw.

Thanks Paul, never thought I'd go manual over power but looking forward to those new vocabulary words.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a very good saw for what you're doing. The last 6-drawer cabinet I did was done by hand with that 20tpi saw. Works great on thinner and/or harder stock. There are way better videos out there by guys like Shannon (Renaissance Woodworker), but I also recorded all 6 drawers as they were done different ways; they're on my blog. As for vocabulary words, nearly every cut in those videos was to avoid giving out free samples of the words to viewers... it was 104ºF in my shop that week. Thankfully I have an A/C in there now...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.