TreesPlease Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 (edited) Hello everyone, I was wondering if you could share some thoughts with me regarding my table saw? It is a Master Mechanic 10" Table Saw (Model #: MM8035). I bought it at a garage sale and it looked like it was in lightly-used, pretty decent shape. However, I started to notice that, as it cuts, it tends to pull the workpiece toward the blade. Also, some cuts would be drawn well away from the fence as they passed through the blade. In general, it seems to cut a straight line, but it is hard to manage the workpiece as it is going through the blade because of the pulling action. This feels pretty dangerous at times. I found that when I set the fence parallel to the blade, that the top of the blade angled away from the fence (when the bevel was set at 0 degrees), which is possibly why the blade "pulled" the wood away from the fence and toward the blade. I have also tried one other blade in this saw with similar issues, so I don't believe the issue is with the blade itself. I messed around with the saw yesterday to try to get it properly aligned. I found an article that mentioned some micro adjustment points that I don't believe exist on my table saw. However, underneath the table, there is a long threaded rod that contains two stop-bolts that can be moved with allen-wrench style bolts. The rest of the issue can be best explained by the pictures I attached (please click on them for a better view): Pic 1 Each of these stop-bolts indicates the maximum bevel for 0 degrees and 45 degrees respectively (orange arrow on right). I loosened the stop-bolt for the 0 degree adjustment, but found that when I tilted the blade as far as it would go for 0 degrees, there was no more room on the threaded rod for the stop bolt to be reattached (orange arrow on left). The blade currently bevels to 45 degrees with no problem. Pic 2 This is a close-up of the end of the threaded rod, showing that there is no more room to reattach the stop bolt as the blade is as close as it can be to the 0 degree bevel setting. Pic 3 The blade is still not perfectly straight up-and-down at 0 degrees. The gauge on the front of the saw shows the dial as being beyond the limits of 0 degrees. There is strong resistance when I try to turn the bevel wheel further, as if there is something pressing against the motor, preventing it from beveling further (although it doesn't look like there is anything preventing the motor from being able to do so). Pic 4 This is a picture of the rip-fence set next to the blade. The two arrows show how the blade is off-set rather than being straight up and down. This is how the blade currently sits at the bevel settings shown in the previous pictures. The saw blade itself is flat and the arbor components all seem to be well rounded and flat. Do you know of any way that I can fix the blade so that it sits straight up and down at the 0 degree setting? I'm wondering if there is a way to tilt the angle of the nut that moves on the threaded rod as the bevel wheel is turned (see the bolts underneath the left-orange arrow in Pic 1. Maybe that would allow the motor to bevel to 0 degrees without reaching the end of the rod? Thank you for any suggestions. Edited April 20, 2015 by TreesPlease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 You can see in pic #1 your all the way against the stop the screw is not the issue. Look at the pivot point. If its attached to the saw top then the top has likely been shifted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FtrPilot Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Welcome to the forums... Before anyone can provide specific information, they will need the saw's manufacturer and model number. Looking at the pictures, I can tell that my saw is not the same as yours, so all I can offer are generic suggestions. One of the first things you should do is get a copy of the user's manual. Normally, you can download from the manufacturer's web site. With the tilt knob set to 0, the blade must be perpendicular to the table top. The user's manual should tell how to do this. Recommend an engineer's square for this. With the tilt knob set to 45, the blade must be 45 degrees to the table top. Once again, the user's manual should tell how to do this. Next, you need to confirm that the fence, when locked down, is parallel to the miter slot. Assuming they are parallel, then you have to adjust the blade so it is parallel to the fence and the miter slot. Once again, the user's manual should tell how to do this. It is absolutely critical that all of these adjustments are made correctly. Once you have listed the manufacturer and model number, I am pretty sure a forum member with the same saw will be able to help. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 I doubt you will find anything on this saw worth reading and doubt it came with a manual detailed enough to show adjustments anyways. I would just take a look at how the mechanism works and try to figure it out based on how it operates. Somebody probably dropped it at some point in time and something has shifted. Based on a quick google search true value hardware is no longer true value and the master mechanic line is now made by someone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreesPlease Posted April 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Hello everyone, Thank you for the replies. You can see in pic #1 your all the way against the stop the screw is not the issue. Look at the pivot point. If its attached to the saw top then the top has likely been shifted. Particle Board: In this picture, I am all the way to the end of the threaded rod, but I have the stop screw removed in this picture. There is no more room on the rod for me to reattach the stop screw (which is the same kind as at the other end of the rod for the 45 degree stop). I believe the pivot point is the straight bar at the very bottom of Pic 1. It does seem to be attached to the table top so perhaps something has been mis-aligned there. Welcome to the forums... Before anyone can provide specific information, they will need the saw's manufacturer and model number. Looking at the pictures, I can tell that my saw is not the same as yours, so all I can offer are generic suggestions. One of the first things you should do is get a copy of the user's manual. Normally, you can download from the manufacturer's web site. With the tilt knob set to 0, the blade must be perpendicular to the table top. The user's manual should tell how to do this. Recommend an engineer's square for this. With the tilt knob set to 45, the blade must be 45 degrees to the table top. Once again, the user's manual should tell how to do this. Next, you need to confirm that the fence, when locked down, is parallel to the miter slot. Assuming they are parallel, then you have to adjust the blade so it is parallel to the fence and the miter slot. Once again, the user's manual should tell how to do this. FtrPilot, thanks for the heads-up. The table saw is a Master Mechanic 10" Table Saw (Model #: MM8035). After a few quick Google searches, I couldn't find an owners manual and when I bought it (at a garage sale), it did not come with one. As for the 45 degree bevel, I have been able to move the stop screw to the appropriate spot on the threaded rod to ensure that the blade bevels to 45 degrees as measured with a triangle. I haven't checked yet whether or not the fence is perfectly parallel to the miter slot (it's not the most stable fence as it can be locked down at slight angles if I'm not careful) but I don't think there are major problems there. I'll keep looking for an owner's manual! Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Is the face of your fence a true 90* to the table? As stated in the previous posts everything needs to be aligned to the table not to each other. Some of the less expensive fences are not guaranteed flat on the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Its against the stop playing with the screw is not going to help, something has shifted at the pivot point. I added a yellow arrow to your pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreesPlease Posted April 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Its against the stop playing with the screw is not going to help, something has shifted at the pivot point. I added a yellow arrow to your pic. post-17763-0-34220900-1429546703.jpg Wow, thank you pointing that out! I'll see what I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FtrPilot Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I have also been looking on-line for a manual, with no success. Can you post a couple of external pictures of the saw and stand...front, side, top down? I am not giving up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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