Pool/Snooker Cues

[WelshWood]

Hey guys.

 

In the process of sorting out my workshop from start to finish, (looking to post the project in the relevant forum), I've got a few machines on my mind which are going to be my first investments into the workshop, but I have a question to ask;

 

I'm a keen Pool and Snooker player, being captain of my local sides and have always wanted to turn out a custom cue (who wouldn't want one?!) Trouble is, I've never done any wood turning before and was looking for some advice on the forums to see if anyone does this kind of work?

 

I know it's not an easy project to take on but i'm keen too learn  

 

Any takers?

 

~WW

[Carl Olsen]

I have seen peoples selling nice cue blank on ebay (cocobolo, ebony etc.), you could get some really cool wood for that !

 

Never checked, but it should be easy to find the metal attachment for them. It doesnt look too hard either. I'm curious also if peoples have ressources for that.

 

Most cues have fiberglass wrapped over them isnt ?

[WelshWood]

Those are the kinds of woods I was thinking of using actually, great minds and all that! Will probably end up making a 3 piece cue as that's the current one that I'm using.

 

As a complete novice to woodturning.. How hard would it actually be to make the taper needed for a pool cue? A Lathe is lower in priority for me at the moment compared to other machines but would like to get a reasonably priced one on a budget. Mainly to be used for this project and small items such as knobs etc etc in the future, any recommendations that aren't to heavily priced?

 

I don't know about any other pool players, but the last 2 cues I've bought, I've sanded the coating right off them (I feel like it helps glide better through my hand and fingers)

 

~WW

[jHop]

My turning skills have suffered as a result of going back to school, so I'm just going to offer some general questions for thought.

 

First, measure your current sticks.  The length of the longest part (you stated it's a three part stick, right?) will be the minimum length of the bed of the lathe you will need.  True, you can get away with a bed extension, but if you don't already have either the long enough lathe or a lathe already, that needs to be factored in to the cost of tool purchase.

 

second, for a longer (and narrower) spindle (which is basically what your cue will be), you should look into some form of support for it while it's turning.  The cue will undergo a lot of flex while you turn it, and stabilizing it will reduce that flex so you don't accidentally snap the blank while turning.

 

Third, it takes a little practice to get long, smooth, consistent tapers on a lathe.  So don't think your going to get just one blank and be done.  (The flip side is this is usually how the turning bug bites... so it's not a bad thing per se.)

 

Fourth, sandpaper will be your friend to smooth out a long consistent taper after you've found the cue inside the blank.

 

Sixth, choose your blank(s) well.  You will need to watch grain patterns to see if or where the grain moves.  Something that curves along one square face may cause later warping.  

 

Yes, there are manufacturers out there who offer the connection points.  it might take a bit of searching, but they're out there.  Somewhere.  I haven't been motivated or courageous enough to try turning my own cue (my last one warped on me, so I'm evaluating if I'm good enough of a player to justify purchasing one... or two... or just using the local bar/club sticks) to track down sources.

 

As for handle or shaft decoration, it's no big surprise that I'd recommend leather (inlay) as I'm a fan of leather.  However, there are complementary woods or grains, stones, metals, inlays of a variety of types, and even more.  Find something you like, and check out how to make it.  It might not be as complicated as you think.

 

As for tools... you probably can get away with just three tools (for now): a roughing gouge to get it from a square blank to round, a skew chisel (I'd recommend 3/8" or 1/2") and a scraper.  Sure, you can get the skew to act like a scraper, but that's a lot of wood to smooth out.  And not everybody wants to use the skew the way it wants to be used.  If you don't like the idea of the scraper or skew, check into the EZWood tools.  (I don't own one, so I can't offer a view on them.)  Then remember your sandpaper.  It will cover the last of the mistakes (sorry, design features) that might be made, and level the playing field.

 

Last thing I will mention is to use one of your old cues as a pattern.  You have a couple of options.  First, set it up in front of you so you can reference calipers to it at various points while you turn.  Second, trace the outline onto a scrap piece of plywood long enough and drive nails in on the outline so you can reference off those distances while turning.  (Third option is to make what I call a "card sizer": cut out the profile distance in some thick card stock or heavy cardboard so you can slip it over the turning blank while it's still on the lathe.  Once it slips over, you've gotten the cue down to the appropriate size.  (It's not difficult to go past that mark, so I'd recommend making the blank slightly oversized.  That way you can sand down to the dimensions you need.

 

remember to buy your blank AT LEAST an inch longer than the longest section you will be turning, so you have enough to put the lathe points and chuck onto it while turning.  If you want one matched grain cue from butt to tip, you're going to be paying for it in wood selection.  Or, you can look into veneering a grain pattern on, which will save on costs but add up to headaches when lining up the veneer.  (It's also late here, so my mind comes up with odd ideas because the usual safety interlocks not only are off but have been obliterated by their need for sleep.  So much of what I'm suggesting might not look good under rational thought.)

 

But it's possible.  I know my skill level will not let me attempt this.  Does not mean it can't be done, and there are at least a dozen people on this forum who probably could without sweating it.  I hope they'll pipe up and correct anything I've said that isn't appropriate or isn't right.

[Mike M]

First of all, it takes a LOT of practice (or a lot of sandpaper) to get long consistent tapers on a lathe.  Plan of turning a bunch of hardwood into long skinny sticks before you attempt the real project.  I'd recommend making long handled shoehorns for Christmas presents this year.  The parts are available from several vendors such as Craft Supplies (woodturnerscatalog.com).

 

My tools of choice would be the roughing gouge to make the blank round then a 1" skew chisel to cut the taper.  You will also need to learn to support the wood with your hand while cutting to keep it from vibrating.  Then use sandpaper on thin strips of wood to smooth out the little bumps.

 

I know, crawling and walking ain't much fun when all you want is to run.

[sjeff70]

 

I'm a keen Pool and Snooker player, being captain of my local sides and have always wanted to turn out a custom cue (who wouldn't want one?!) Trouble is, I've never done any wood turning before and was looking for some advice on the forums to see if anyone does this kind of work?

 

~WW

 

In my late teens we found a hall with a Snooker table (circa 1989).  

You couldn't get me off it that day, and as it were I never played again.  

That hall soon closed down and I never did see another table after that.

[Tom King]

I think a duplicator would be a big help.

 

I just did a  Google search, and there are all sorts of videos from industrial cue machines, to ones people made themselves.

 

 

an example:    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAmum0fpBlI