Frustrated just cutting a straight line

[Juicegoose]

Ben,

We all blame tools from time to time it's how we grow our newer tool collection. Here was my resolution to the ts-55 problem. I went out and upgraded to a nicer circular saw(had the task force orginally)it's a milwaukee from Home depot. I then went to woodcraft and picked up some of there clamp guide products. They are extruded aluminum and have a miter slot built in to accept jigs or their own blank base plate. as you can see in one of the pictures the saw slides in the track. It's great and a far upgrade from my homemade edge guide. I use the saw now comfortably knowing it's going to cut a straight as an arrow line.

Another good thing is at least with the milwaukee once i mounted the saw to the blank base plate it was offset exactly 2.5 inches. A simple offset in measurement when I'm marking the cutline and BAM we are go for launch.

I also picked up another blank plate and mounted my router's d-handle to it. It works great as well.

[jHop]

For a long time, i considered building a panel saw to break down sheet goods. (Similar to those you can visit at the BORG, but using 2x4s) I still think it's a good idea, but I have given up on it because of several reasons.

#1, I don't have that kind of cash sitting around to build an eight foot tall by ten foot wide one trick pony.

#2, I don't have the space to build an eight foot by ten foot one trick pony.

#3, even if I modify it to handle 4x8 sheets in one particular orientation, what about 5 foot wide sheets?

#4, Can I really justify dedicating one saw to just one function?

#5, I could, if I tried hard enough (Rockler) find a reseller (Rockler) that has a plate (Rockler) that rotates so I could cut vertically or horizontally (Rockler).

#6, even if I should find said retailer, where ever would I find plans for this idea? (Rockler)

And #7, (probably the most important), why bother with one particular tool that only does one thing? I can understand the necessity of the spindle sanders, the hollow chisel mortiser, and even detail sanders. But to dedicate one entire corner of my shop to just cutting down sheet goods so they are in sizes that the rest of my tools are capable of working it? For that, I'd rather have a portable setup that can get very small in storage. Even getting just a backing material, that can get placed with the rest of my sheet goods (once I get some, that is) for storage.

I think we have all uncovered several options and methods to break down sheet goods without needing to upgrade to a sliding table saw. (Even though it's on all of our wish lists, right?) As to the track saw, I'm not trying to "dis" the Festool lines. I love the concept of the Festool TS-55, but I don't have that kind of money. (see reason number one.) Marc did a video some time ago, reviewing/comparing the Festool track saw and the DeWalt track saw, and suggested options on what to do if you don't have either. Since that video, I have been considering what I really need by way of tools. Not what would be nice to have, but what's in my budget, what's in my storage capacity, and how often will I use it.

I think it's safe to say I'm not the talented Mr. Abrams. (or even the new hire flunky who sweeps his shop.) While I agree that the table saw being out of alignment can take away enjoyment of woodworking, there are solutions. Even to the fence not staying true in alignment. For example, there are cross cut sleds, that remove the fence from the equation. (If your miter slots are out of alignment, however, that becomes a bit of an issue. They can be fixed, if you want to dedicate some time to it. Putting a sacrificial surface on the sled will allow for fences, if you still want them. Plus, you can store a sled at the bottom of the table saw.

Well, I've rambled enough on the obvious. I apologize for the long post; I didn't realize I was verbally constipated until just now.

[TonyV]

Ben:

That tablesaw of yours looks a lot like the POS Craftsman benchtop saw I used to have. Very light weight, fence wouldn't clamp parallel to the blade unless you measured from the front & back of the blade to the fence and held it firmly in place while locking it down. Couldn't crosscut a 1/4" dowel square with the stock miter gauge.

I made it work for me, though. I became adapt at ignoring the fence tape & measuring the fence placement for rip cuts, then double checking that the fence locked down square. And readjusting it if wasn't. I built a cross cut sled with two runners & stopped using the mite gauge entirely. I finally got square cuts. None of my cuts were ready for gluing from the saw, but I just sanded more.

I lived with that POS for about 4 years. I replaced it with a Craftsman 22124 "zip code" saw & the difference is night & day. The Biesemeyer fence locks down parallel to the blade every time. I bought an Osborne EB-3 miter gauge & I get square cuts, every time. Unless I set the miter guage to some other angle, that is! The cuts are ready for gluing from the saw without any sanding, scraping or planing.

And this saw can spin a full 7/8" thick 8" diameter dado stack. The benchtop saw could only spin a max 1/2" thick 6" diameter dado stack.

My only regret was not replacing the saw sooner.

What I learned from all of this is that a benchtop saw is meant to be a tool used by carpenters building houses where precision & accuracy isn't as important. If the end of a 2x4 is a couple of degrees off square, who cares once it's built into a wall? You'll never notice it. But if you're making a picture frame, you'll never get a square frame & everyone will know.

I can't give you any advice on switching to a T-55, but if you're space challenged & you're sure you'll be working mostly with plywood, go for it.

Tony

[Chester]

Just my opinion ...

Buy the best table saw that you can and pick it out like you are going use it for all of your woodworking life ... and hand it down to your kids when you die. With the $$ you save from not buying the Festool, you can probably buy a fairly decent TS.

Then, make sure that you have a very good circular saw and make a good 2-sided cross-cut jig for your circular saw and router. I made mine out of some scrap melamine and it cuts just as cleanly as the Festool.

PS - I will also make a full length (96") plywood cutting jig as soon as I next need it.