Table top help

[shooterscott]

Hey all I've been working on this off and on for a few months now and I'm finally at the point of no return on the top. I am though wondering what the proper procedure is for the top. I think that it needs to have supports on the bottom other than the aprons that the legs connect to. I've never built a table like this before and I really don't want to screw it up. Thanks for any thoughts you might have. Just a bit of info on the table. It is 63" square 5/4 walnut and very heavy, that is why I'm concerned about the possibility of sagging in the middle.

[dryhter]

Hey Scott,

It probably does not really need it, but after all the work that has gone into the table so far and the fact that it would be so simple to add the support now, I think I would do it just for the peace of mind,

How are you going to go about attaching the table top?

[shooterscott]

Thanks for the thoughts, I tend to agree on doing it now just for the peace of mind. Like you said, way to much invested in it now to in a few months walk in and see my son (4) jumping up and down in the middle and have it split, I really don't think that will happen but why find out the hard way.

To answer your question about attaching the top, I've considered three or four options, 1. to use those little metal clips that you can get a Rockler or Woodcraft that slide in a groove on the apron. 2. Those other little clips that look like figure 8's. 3. Shop made clips out of scrap with a tongue that rides in a groove. And 4. Elongated screw holes.

Not sold on one just yet. Do you have another option / Idea?

If you are interested there are a few more photos of the workings at my blog.

My link

[Pete Bennett]

Thanks for the thoughts, I tend to agree on doing it now just for the peace of mind. Like you said, way to much invested in it now to in a few months walk in and see my son (4) jumping up and down in the middle and have it split, I really don't think that will happen but why find out the hard way.

To answer your question about attaching the top, I've considered three or four options, 1. to use those little metal clips that you can get a Rockler or Woodcraft that slide in a groove on the apron. 2. Those other little clips that look like figure 8's. 3. Shop made clips out of scrap with a tongue that rides in a groove. And 4. Elongated screw holes.

Not sold on one just yet. Do you have another option / Idea?

If you are interested there are a few more photos of the workings at my blog.

My link

Hi shooterscott I regularly make large dining tables. This how I do it, see what you think. After all there is no one way to do anything. I make up the apron frame morticed into the legs in the normal way. but, depending on the size of the table I will Stop Dovetail mid rails across the apron frame. On a table the size you're talking I would have one rail mid way. Usually I make them the same depth as the apron, but I would curve them slightly to the centre. So if you have say a 4" apron my rail would be 4" at each end and about 3" - 3 1/4" in the centre. As regards fitting the top, I always, and I mean always run a groove around the apron and the mid rails and make what are termed buttons. These are normally about 2" square and 1 1/4" thick, although I do cut a small angle at the corners and a chamfer around the edge to make them look at least decent. The lip that goes into the groove is normally about a 1/2" thick and projects about the same from the shoulder of the button. I then drill and countersink a 6mm hole about 1/2" in from the edge of this shoulder, this is so that the hole is nearer to the groove than the centre of the button, if you can follow this. I then shave an 1/8" off the top edge sloping towards the lip so that when you tighten in the screw it has a small gap under it to pull it against the top. If you don't do this you will quite often not get a good grip between the top and the upper edge of the apron. I would suggest setting them on about one foot centres. If done well they will not only firmly hold the top, but, they will also go a long way to preventing the top from bowing.

Pete

[Guest Trace]

I agree with the Wood Servant, with the only difference being to place the cross members at the quarter points of the cross grain. About 16 1/2 inches fron the ends. This would give room for knees at the ends.

[Pete Bennett]

I agree with the Wood Servant, with the only difference being to place the cross members at the quarter points of the cross grain. About 16 1/2 inches fron the ends. This would give room for knees at the ends.

I absolutely agree about knee room, something that is often overlooked, but, I was not actually talking about the dimensions of the apron frame only that I would place a mid rail across the underside of the top jointed into the apron frame.