Buffing out water based lacquer topcoat

[drobathan]

Hi All,

My first time asking for help here, so I hope I'm in the right place.

I am making a bar for a friend, and have finished the top with five coats of water-based lacquer, the last two coats brushed on (due to a move indoors because of really cold/humid weather). I need suggestions for buffing out the top to a really smooth feel. A satin finish is OK. I can use steel wool, but what if I need to apply another coat of finish? Could I get rust problems? Would using a light oil as a lubricant help stop that issue? Is Minwax paste wax OK for a bar top, where there would be water/alcohol present?

As you can see, I am open to any/all suggestions, but I am limited to a back bedroom due to the weather conditions. Volatile fumes are not going to go over well with my wife...

Thanks for any help.

[AceHoleInOne]

Tell us what brand of water-based lacquer your using.

So you have brushed on the last 2 coats, how did those turn out, smooth or rough?

No don't use oil to rub, just water or a clear dish soap and water, (again this depends on the topcoat maker, some recommend a dry rub/sand. Rub a finish usually after 7 to 10 days or even longer till cured, it all depends on your finishing room environment)

Yes you can wax a water-based topcoat (only after the finish has cured, again 7 to 10 days, best if longer, it all depends on your finishing room enviroment)

Personally, I don't like steel wool to rub. I use high 1000 grit Abralon or Sia sanding pad ( for a satin finish )attach to my random orbit sander source for high grit sanding pads go easy here, your goal is to polish the topcoat, not a heavy sand.

-Ace-

[drobathan]

Ace,

I have been using a product from Hydrocote called Resisthane. I am using the satin finish, and I like it quite a bit. The final brushed coat came out pretty smooth using a synthetic brush, but since this is a bar top, where lots of hands are going to be, I want one of those silky, begging to be touched surfaces. I have wet-sanded with 600 grit using soapy water for a lubricant, and now I am ready to rub it out to a final surface prior to putting the bar into the house. Right now the weather in my shop is cold and humid, so I am in a bedroom, where the temp is 67-68 degrees. My local Home Depot / Ace stores only carry the abrasive pads in "rougher" colors, so thanks for the source info. Would you recommend a gray or white pad for the rubout process? Do the water-based products still take 10 days to fully cure?

Thanks for the help.

[AceHoleInOne]

Sorry not up on the Hydrocote product line. Though, I did read that you get 100% burn in if re-coated withing 48 hours. Usually that means, you should have a thick enough coat (two coats turn into one thick coat) to rub without concerns of ghosting. Ghosting occurs when you sand through to the coat beneath, you actually can see a visible cut through between coats of finish).

Scotch brite grey is about 600/800 grit. White is about 1200/1500 grit. I prefer not to rub with scotch brite. My observation, fresh scotch brite pads can be too aggressive and leave "deep" scratches in the finish. My advice if you go this route is to work the pad a little bit first before you take it to the Bar. Work it in some.

As to the "cure" I think you can work the finish after a good 10 days of dry (**disclaimer** not for sure... I don't use the Hydrocote products) Fully cure, can take maybe even up to 30 days...just depends.

If you have any doubts or questions, please contact the folks at Hydrocote directly, I'm sure they will be able to answer your questions fully, most finish companies do.

No question is a dumb question!!!!!!!

-Ace-