Ripping 2x12x8' in half - best procedure?

[capnjack2]

Excellent answer, BuilderBill! I just can't see doing this with a skilsaw or a bandsaw, IMHO. You'll start off with a straighter cut and less chance of any kickback if you let the wood dry and then cut it on the TS. I had to rip some 2x8s and found that the roller was the biggest problem. Dragged the wood right into the blade. So I rigged a half sheet of plywood from the back of the table saw to the top of the roller. Now its like that little outfeed that Ridgid sells.

Jack

[Beechwood Chip]

I've only used my rollers a few times, but I haven't had any problems. I wonder if waxing the rollers would help?

[jHop]

I'd like to suggest another possibility, especially for thicker stock. Instead of trying to cut all the way through in one pass, I'd suggest going through about a 1/2" cut, and going back through the same cut. Either by hand, or raising the blade. Especially if you cut the other side of the board first.

Considering this is only 2x stock, you are left with taking 1/4" cut on either side, and going back through it (which is wasting time, not just time consuming) or using the circular saw to cut the lumber. Personally, I'd set up the cutting area (foam board, saw horse, whatever) and set several of the 2x12s on the cutting area, spaced enough to support the bottom of the circular saw.

[Andrew Hohnstein]

Thanks everyone for all the valuable input. I didn't expect so many replies. It's very much appreciated. I think I will plan on using jointing an edge with a router then using featherboards, splitter and in/outfeed support to rip using my TS. Most importantly I wanted to make sure what I was wanting to do was not unsafe nor out of the realm of possibility and I'm comfortable now with the replies given.

I joined the guild to learn and be a part of this community. I appreciate the generosity of your time and attention.

[wilburpan]

Excellent answer, BuilderBill! I just can't see doing this with a skilsaw or a bandsaw, IMHO. You'll start off with a straighter cut and less chance of any kickback if you let the wood dry and then cut it on the TS.

I'm not sure I'm reading this correctly, but are you saying that you can get kickback ripping on a bandsaw? There may be some reasons not to try a rip cut like the one the OP wants to do on a bandsaw, but kickback can't be one of them.

[capnjack2]

I meant that he would avoid kickback on the table saw, naturally.

[Mr. Mc Jones]

Im a new guy here and Id like to join in if you all dont mind.

I have ripped long pieces of wood with no problems what so ever..

A grip tight before the blade to hold the wood against the fence and a out feed table/roller stand to support the weight of the wood and prevent the wood from lifting off the table

Feed is also important, a slow steady speed depending on how much power the OPs saw has.

The only concern I would have is what type of saw the OP has.

It doesnt have to be a cabinent saw but it does have to be a good saw with a good fence that is sturdy and wont move on him and a thin kerf blade should do the trick.