Zero clearance for sliding crosscut fence.

[wdwerker]

A year or so ago I knocked out a prototype out of scrap western red cedar. This morning I decided to build a better version with replaceable sacrificial face boards. A few minutes of math to get the most out of a leftover plank of 5/4 maple and I ended up with  this shop accessory plus 7 spare faces. This set up lets me keep shifting the entire assembly over about 2" to get a series of fresh cuts to back up new cuts before I replace the face board.

Rear view. I made a hardware store run for acorn nuts to protect my..........

The whole assembly bolts to the fence with a couple " Tee bolts " 

Hey Mel this should work on your sliding crosscut  !

 

 

 

[mat60]

 Great idea.  Looks like you used some bolts that fit into the slot in fence.  No holes drilled in fence.  

[Ronn W]

OK, That's the kick in the ass I neede to do something similar. 

BTW Why/how do you have 2 slots for the blade in your insert and how did the blade get so farr to one side?

[wdwerker]

I have 2 UniSaws. I use the same replaceable insert throat plates in both. Saw was set up with the blade in that position when I got it. So I only tweaked it slightly as I tuned up the saw. Re-using the inserts from one saw to the other gets more use out of them. Haven't made a batch of inserts in years but I am going to make a large batch soon. All the effort is in getting the cuts set up exactly so a 5' x 5' sheet of 1/4" Baltic should yield a lifetime supply.

The entire jig attaches to a lower rear Tee slot in the back of the fence with 2 Tee bolts. As each slot gets worn I just loosen the bolts & slide the jig outwards to cut a new slot. The extra height lets me cut to the full depth(3") of cut possible.