rbbauer00 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I am in the planning stages of an entertainment center for my new awesome 60" tv. It will have raised panel sides, inset doors, and a single drawer for dvd's and games. I want the drawer to have a raised panel front to match the sides of the carcass. Where I'm confused is that the back of the false front won't be flat, so how do you attach it to the true front? I thought about using the screws for the handle to go through both the false front and the true front, but is there a better way? Should I just fill the cavity in the false front with 1/4 ply or something to make the back flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I'd think that the rails and stiles should give enough long-grain glue up surface area to make a strong joint with the drawer front. I might put a screw at each corner in addition to the two screws for the pull, "to hold it while the glue dries". The main force of pulling the drawer open will be on the drawer pull screws which will transmit the force directly to the "real" drawer front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 Use the longer screws to hold the drawer pull on so that you go through both pieces, but add 2 screws through the back to hold the front to the drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Bennett Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I am in the planning stages of an entertainment center for my new awesome 60" tv. It will have raised panel sides, inset doors, and a single drawer for dvd's and games. I want the drawer to have a raised panel front to match the sides of the carcass. Where I'm confused is that the back of the false front won't be flat, so how do you attach it to the true front? I thought about using the screws for the handle to go through both the false front and the true front, but is there a better way? Should I just fill the cavity in the false front with 1/4 ply or something to make the back flush? There was a similar post not long back. The easiest way to do this is first to put some double sided adhesive tape around the rear perimeter of your false drawer front peel off the backing and carefully align it to the actual drawer front (which is of course sitting in the cabinet and hopefully flush with the front frame.) Once you have this perfectly aligned push it firmly into place. Drill for the fixings. In this case I would place a screw at each corner, but do not drive them in yet. Next I would clamp a block of scrap across the false front and drill through from the rear at what ever place you intend for the handle, knob or whatever. Once all this is perfect. Peel off the false front, remove the double sided if you wish, but it'll be OK if left. Next pass the bolts through the real drawer front from the rear, place a couple of spacers that coincide with the depth of recess from the false front frame to the rear of the raised panel. Pass the bolts through the false front, re-align the drillings for the fixing screws and screw it in place. Next screw on the handle. All done. If you don't place spacers behind the false front you will distort either the false front panel or the real drawer front, which ever is the more pliable of the two. You'll probably find it's easier to do than it is to explain how. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbbauer00 Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 Thanks, guys. That sounds perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 There is a product called a drawer front screw. This is a large headed screw that is used to fasten the drawer front to the box and to also allow some adjustment. You can get them from McFeelys #0810, 0811 and 0812-SRZ. You can drill holes in the box that are 1/4" or 5/16" in diameter. Use 2 for a shallow drawer and 4 for a deep one. Then, with the box in the case and 1/4" dowel center pins in the holes press the front to the pins to locate the centers of the holes. Drill a pilot, then fasten the front to the front of the box. You can adjust the front until it is perfectly centered in the opening and tighten the screws. Finally drill the holes for the hardware and mount the knob/pull. If you don't have dowel pins you can also use double sided tape to stick the front to the box then mark the pilot hole centers with the drill bit. Just remove the tape so you can do your final tweaking. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 I used to use a small dowel in the corners of the rails and glue. Not the panel it needs to move. Then the you will have the screws for the handle. The handle does not pull on the raised panel instead it pulls on the drawer box. Commercial cabinetry uses a small "L" bracket on either side of the drawer box. Then relies on the hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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