Popular Post Bmac Posted March 8, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Boy, this winter has really been terrible for me to get out into the field/woods for milling with my chainsaw. Fortunately the bandsaw mill I hired in Dec gave me a good stash for this year, but I still have about 8 smaller logs I need milled and the chainsaw mill will be employed for these. I was able to get out last month for a few cherry logs, but it's been tough. Seems this year in the Mid-Atlantic region the cold weather and frozen ground hits in the middle of the week when I'm at work, and the rain comes on the weekends. So is the plight of someone who is not yet retired. I did get out the other day to mill up 2 smaller cherry logs, both logs are little over 5 ft log. Nothing big, in fact these were firewood logs. After cutting and splitting a few rounds I saw some great curly figure in the wood. These 2 logs were the only ones not yet cut up for firewood, so I decided to mill them. For milling I use two different attachments on my chainsaws, an Alaskan Mill and a Logosol Timberjig. These are attached to two Stihl 660s with muffler mods. The Alaskan is used with a 42" Cannon Bar and the Timberjig is used with a 25" bar. Since I'm not a live edge builder, I like my boards edged. The Timberjig really helps with this. Edging the boards also have multiple other advantages. Firstly, by squaring up my logs I decrease the width of the log I'm milling. This is huge as it allows me to mill faster and put less stress on the saws. Also, I like to mill at 10/4, opting to resaw these boards in my shop after they dry. Decreasing the width of my boards by cutting off the bark and sapwood also decreases the weight of the 10/4 boards. Resawing in the shop also has some big advantages. This decreases waste since the kerf of my bandsaw is much less than the kerf of the chainsaw chain. I figure by cutting boards 10/4 in the field and resawing in the shop I save a board or two from each log from turning into sawdust. Now I realize chainsaw milling is not for everyone, but it has it's place and can be used on site if moving logs is a challenge. I also realize it's not the most efficient means of procuring lumber from logs, but it is affordable and very portable, these are huge advantages. Finally, chainsaw milling is the preferred method for slabbers that like wide natural edge boards. Now on to some pics; First thing I do is attach a board to the log. This is a 8' 2x6 screwed into the log. My Alaskan mill will travel along this flat board to create a flat surface; After that, i attach the jig I use with the Logosol attachment. This is 2 boards joined at a right angle. The jig is screwed into the flat surface the Alaskan mill helped form. You can see how the logosol attachment travels on this jig; Here's some older photos showing it being done; And the result; Now do it again and you have a squared up log; This looks deceiving, but this is about 10" wide and a little over 5' long. Next the logosol is set to mill 10/4 boards, the adjustable guide that runs on the vertical bars sets the board thickness; Now that runs along the log like at the right angle to slice off boards, 15 minutes later 3 boards, these aren't the prettiest boards but you never know when you cut into a log what the wood will look like; Here's an example of the Alaskan slabbing a log with crotch wood, this is what most people thick of when they think of chainsaw milling; And you can see here, my chainsaws have milled some nice logs, here are a few nice big walnut logs getting set up for milling; I've milled quite a bit of lumber over the years with my chainsaws and using the 2 different attachments has helped me be much more efficient and productive. Hope some people found this interesting or useful. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Bmac are you running a skip tooth chain? We need to get a chainsaw bar for two powerheads and mill a few logs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted March 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 I've run a full comp chain and a skip tooth, gravitating more to the skip tooth esp with longer bars. Skip tooth are quicker to sharpen, but they do dull faster. I think the skip tooth on a long bar is easier on the power head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 All woodworkers need to chainsaw mill a few logs. It’s a good feeling looking at the lumber that you cut with a chainsaw, after your back stops hurting. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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