thefeelingreturns Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 I build a top for my audio cabinet out of red oak and MDF. The joints are glued with Titebond II. I put several layers of Tru Oil into the oak and I have changed my my mind and want to get rid of the oil. I’d like to use Citristrip to pull out the Tru Oil. My concern is that the Citristrip will also dissolve the glue. I’ve read that Citristrip doesn’t dissolve certain “cured glues.” Does anyone know how Citristrip interacts with Titebond? If Citristrip isn’t the answer, then what is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Short of scraping away a large amount of surface material, I fear you will not get the oil out of red oak. The large, open pores of red oak tend to soak oil finishes deeply. No idea how Titebond stands up to Citristrip, but my guess is it would be ok. What do you want to change about the finish? You might get away with applying a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac, then your preferred finish over that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Call Titebond's customer service. There is a phone number on the bottle. They are very helpful. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Short of scraping away a large amount of surface material, I fear you will not get the oil out of red oak. The large, open pores of red oak tend to soak oil finishes deeply. No idea how Titebond stands up to Citristrip, but my guess is it would be ok. What do you want to change about the finish? You might get away with applying a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac, then your preferred finish over that. I agree. I would definitely test this on a scrap piece first I'm not convinced a stripper will remove a product designed to soak into the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefeelingreturns Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Short of scraping away a large amount of surface material, I fear you will not get the oil out of red oak. The large, open pores of red oak tend to soak oil finishes deeply. No idea how Titebond stands up to Citristrip, but my guess is it would be ok. What do you want to change about the finish? You might get away with applying a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac, then your preferred finish over that. I’m planning to do acrylic pouring (a style of art) on top of the piece. AP is water-based and need not involve the oil. If I can strip the oil off the top, I can likely seal the wood with Titebond, prime it with bonding primer and paint on that. (That’s my tentative plan.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefeelingreturns Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 6 hours ago, pkinneb said: I agree. I would definitely test this on a scrap piece first I'm not convinced a stripper will remove a product designed to soak into the wood. If I can get it to strip off of the surface and down just a little bit, I think I’ll be able to do what I want to do. (A test piece/joint is sound logic and is now in my plan.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefeelingreturns Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 8 hours ago, Mark J said: Call Titebond's customer service. There is a phone number on the bottle. They are very helpful. Wow! No joke! They were super nice and the guy was quite knowledgeable. He said that Titebond will hold up to most strippers, including acetone. I may do a test joint just for piece of mind, but I feel a lot more confident about it now. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 It's like you went back in time. First time I called I looked down to see if I'd used a rotary dial phone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 6 hours ago, thefeelingreturns said: I’m planning to do acrylic pouring (a style of art) on top of the piece. AP is water-based and need not involve the oil. If I can strip the oil off the top, I can likely seal the wood with Titebond, prime it with bonding primer and paint on that. (That’s my tentative plan.) There is a very good chance that a coat of shellac could save you a lot of work with the stripper. Especially if the surface isn't heavily saturated with the oil. Tru oil cures more like poly or alkyd varnish than linseed oil does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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