Xxx-fine saw file

[AcornHouse]

Just received my latest shipment from Josh over at Hyperkitten. One of the items was a wee 4" gent's saw with, I believe, 32ppi teeth. Brass backed, marked T.E.R. London, about 8" total length, about 1/2" deep blade. (We're talking small!)

Now, has anyone heard of saw files that can sharpen something this tiny? I looked at the Japanese feather files, and even the 3" one seemed to only go as fine as 24ppi. I did a couple of test cuts on cedar and walnut, and it does cut, but a bit slowly.

Ideas?

[Bob Rozaieski]

Just received my latest shipment from Josh over at Hyperkitten. One of the items was a wee 4" gent's saw with, I believe, 32ppi teeth. Brass backed, marked T.E.R. London, about 8" total length, about 1/2" deep blade. (We're talking small!)

Now, has anyone heard of saw files that can sharpen something this tiny? I looked at the Japanese feather files, and even the 3" one seemed to only go as fine as 24ppi. I did a couple of test cuts on cedar and walnut, and it does cut, but a bit slowly.

Ideas?

A triangular needle file is about the only thing you will get into those teeth. And no matter how sharp it is, it's going to cut slow at 32 PPI. Those saws were made for small marquetry, inlay and veneer work in very thin stock. In anything thicker than about 1/4", they're going to be very slow no matter how sharp they are because the tiny gullets clog up with sawdust too quickly. In fact, the saw may not be that dull at all. It may just be clogging. What's the thickness of the stock you tried the saw in?

[HoboMonk]

Try Japanese Saw Feather-Edge Files...

[AcornHouse]

A triangular needle file is about the only thing you will get into those teeth. And no matter how sharp it is, it's going to cut slow at 32 PPI. Those saws were made for small marquetry, inlay and veneer work in very thin stock. In anything thicker than about 1/4", they're going to be very slow no matter how sharp they are because the tiny gullets clog up with sawdust too quickly. In fact, the saw may not be that dull at all. It may just be clogging. What's the thickness of the stock you tried the saw in?

Ooh, I had forgotten about my needle files, thanks.

I just did a couple of tests in some guitar build scrap: 3/8" thick western red cedar, and 1/8" thick walnut. When I run my finger over the teeth, I feel no grab at all. Hope a light pass with the needle file will help.

Here's a couple of pics.

[AcornHouse]

Forgot to change file size. Here's the first pic.

[AcornHouse]

And a close® up of the teeth.

[AcornHouse]

A triangular needle file is about the only thing you will get into those teeth. And no matter how sharp it is, it's going to cut slow at 32 PPI. Those saws were made for small marquetry, inlay and veneer work in very thin stock. In anything thicker than about 1/4", they're going to be very slow no matter how sharp they are because the tiny gullets clog up with sawdust too quickly. In fact, the saw may not be that dull at all. It may just be clogging. What's the thickness of the stock you tried the saw in?

Now, should I file in a rip or crosscut pattern, lol.

[Bob Rozaieski]

Now, should I file in a rip or crosscut pattern, lol.

If you can file teeth that small crosscut, I humbly bow down to you my friend

[wilburpan]

I can file teeth that small crosscut. All I have to do is try to file them rip. Voila -- instant crosscut teeth!