Table Saw Setup Issue


semmons23

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I have a 4 month old Jet Xacta Deluxe 3HP, Left Tilt cabinet saw. I had noticed some vibrations (by sound more than anything) after I installed my zero clearance insert. It sounded like the blade was rubbing on the insert but it only happened some of the time. I've realized today that when I raise the blade and spin it by hand (unplugged of course) the blade moves freely and doesn't touch the insert. However, if I lower the blade even a slight amount and try to spin the blade it will rub on the insert. I then raise it just a bit and the rubbing stops. Doesn't seem to matter what height or if I lock the mechanism down or not. This is happening with all my blades (FWWII, Oshlun 80 tooth and Delta Dado) - all rub on the left side. I tried checking it with my Wixey angle finder but its not sensitive enough. It only moving like .001 or so (no feeler gauges so thats a guess) but its enough for the rubbing to occur. Seems to be 100% repeatable.

Is this normal or is there something I need to adjust? Should I just always plan on setting my final blade height via raising the blade and never lowering?

Thanks

Steve

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As long as I raise the blade and lock it down everything is square. If I lower the blade and lock it down, its no longer square. I can't really tell if its not square to the miter slot or the blade is tilting because I can't measure it accurately enough. I have some measuring devices on order so maybe they'll help. This youtube video should demostrate the issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYvjqe4qRmk

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Sounds to me like "lash"; when the height adjustment pushes the blade up it's at one angle, and when it's pulling the blade down it's at a slightly different angle. I agree with Eric - it may just need a cleaning.

If it's a brand new Jet, contact them. They may know of a simple fix. You want to do this even if it doesn't seem serious, because after the brand new smell wears off, they may be less willing to care about tiny imperfections.

As I recall, when I cut a new zero clearance insert, I can hear some contact with the teeth until the slot gets worn down. If it doesn't affect your cuts, I wouldn't worry about it. Similar to table saw tables that are not flat by a thousandth of an inch. There's wood working, there's machining, and then there's nano-fabrication.

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As long as I raise the blade and lock it down everything is square. If I lower the blade and lock it down, its no longer square. I can't really tell if its not square to the miter slot or the blade is tilting because I can't measure it accurately enough. I have some measuring devices on order so maybe they'll help. This youtube video should demostrate the issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYvjqe4qRmk

My instructions that came with my saw said to always lower down below where I wanted and raise back up. Probably for a similar reason.

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I beleive that I had read the same thing somewhere but I don't see it in the owners manual for my saw. I was able to get my dial indicator attached securely to perform a bit more scientific test and its indicating that its moving .007" in the front and .002" in the back. I've uploaded 2 more videos to show this. I'll call Jet and see what they say but I may just have to train myself to always set the depth of cut while raising the blade, never lowering it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHKU1DTSKk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5liGjKMINs

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Just some thoughts I dug up on the web. Not the expert here. Not even close.

Sounds like “runout” or blade wobble. It may relate to arbor shaft runout, or blade and flange runout. If you haven’t already tried it, you might try a different blade and see if it shows the same variance. At least you’ll get a chance to inspect the arbor and flange area. This article may be useful.

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As long as I raise the blade and lock it down everything is square. If I lower the blade and lock it down, its no longer square. I can't really tell if its not square to the miter slot or the blade is tilting because I can't measure it accurately enough. I have some measuring devices on order so maybe they'll help. This youtube video should demostrate the issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYvjqe4qRmk

I am not familiar with that saw, but I can tell you that my unisaw does not do that. If I were you I'd contact Jet and get them to tell you how to fix it etc. You paid a lot for that saw and it should remain accurate at all levels of blade height.

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Talked to jet today and their best guess at this point is a loose bolt or cracked trunnion. Now I have to disassemble this thing and try to find it. That what I wanted to hear!

There is also play in the height adjuster and they don't me how to take that out but they didn't think that would be the issue but to definately try it first.

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Well I haven't taken the top off because I've been able to get to a bunch of bolts, and a lot were loose including at least 3 of the trunnion bolts and 1 of the motor mounts so I've tightened them all up but nothings has changed. I also ran these tests without the belt attched in case it was too tight but it didn't change the results.

I did get my magnetic dial indicator mount so I mounted to the bottom of the cabinet and put the dial indicator under the shaft (part number 144 - http://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet...759_33056.html). I mounted it on both ends and it really doesn't move - .001 - .002 at the most. but when I mount it just in front of part 146, the worm gear, and lower the blade, the shaft raises .007 which is the amount that I see the blade moving. Its not out of round it just raises .007 and stays there no matter how much I lower the blade. If I then raise the blade, it goes back to zero and stays there no matter how high I raise the blade.

Any thoughts ???

Thanks!

Steve

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Maybe you already checked this... didn't read back the whole thread.

My bandsaw's post for raising and lowering the guides had some junk (paint gunk?!) in the cogs. As I'd raise and lower it, the guides would go straight then suddenly deflect because of the gunk. I know someone said to check that, but maybe stop the blade at the point where the blade moves. Then look at the gears and cogs to see what might be there. I gave the gunk a poke with a bamboo skewer... took a hard poke but popped out. Now the guides move very smoothly. Even if it isn't junk in the gears, once you get to that transition point where it moves, raise and lower the blade over that region while taking a look around (yeah, easier said than done in a saw cabinet...) See if you can spot something else moving unusually.

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